I've long had a fascination for pelicans, an intrigue cemented when a young indigenous guide assured me that the regal bird was my totem or "spirit animal", after which I have noticed them appearing at several significant moments in my life.
If there is one place on the East Coast of Australia's coastline with which these cartoon-like birds are most associated it is The Entrance, on the Central Coast, where pelicans have long gathered in the channel leading out to sea from the Tuggerah Lakes.
For several decades, the famous "pelican feed" on weekend and summer holiday afternoons, has drawn crowds here, hoping for a closer gander at these curious-looking creatures.
It all began with a local fish shop tossing them scraps but morphed, over the decades, into an important opportunity for the local Marine Wildlife Rescue service to care for injured birds.
What was once something of a gimmick has been relaunched as "Pelican Time", proffering an educational encounter that fits better with the Central Coast's positioning as one of this country's first official "eco" destinations, certified by Ecotourism Australia.
It is this chance to learn more about my spirit animal that draws me back to this region, just an hour's drive from Newcastle, for the weekend, using Kims Beachside Retreat, in nearby Toowoon Bay, as my base.
"The reason we use the fish", says wildlife carer Michelle Croft, one of several trained volunteers marshalling both birds and people at the designated feeding area, on The Entrance's Marine Parade, "is so we can bring in injured birds and rescue them".
The volunteers are attempting to lure in one bird that has fishing line tightly strung between its beak and left wing, restricting its ability to fly and to eat, so that they can free it from its man-made tangle.
"Pelicans have no predators," Croft says, "but they have an affinity to people and that sometimes gets them into a lot of trouble."
Sitting in a horseshoe around about nine pelicans we get as near to these gawky creatures as I have been. From close-up I am struck by their eyes, that look like large fried eggs, with blue-black pupils inside yellow, yolk-like, surrounds, with off-white fur encircling that.
Also notable are their huge, pinkish and rapier-like beaks, able to open deep and wide near their throats to swallow large fish, and their three-metre wingspan, a fraction of which we see when they are jostling for food.
On land, pelicans have an almost comic quality, wobbling from grey foot to foot like unsteady pensioners. But that belies their majestic ability to soar on rising thermals high in the sky and to stay airborne for up to 24 hours.
"Pelicans produce two to four eggs per pregnancy and incubation of these is between 32 to 35 days," Croft informs us. "They are born naked but by 16 weeks old are the same size as Mum and Dad. Their lifespan is around 25 years."
With the Central Coast now embracing the concept of slow travel and emphasising connections and sensory experiences, this "Pelican Time" encounter is the quintessential, information-packed event on which to centre my visit.
LEGENDARY KIMS RETREAT
However, I am almost as excited to be staying at the legendary Kims Retreat, with its beachfront villas sheltered among Norfolk pines, in the dunes behind Toowoon Bay.
The history of Kims dates back to seaside camps first established in 1886, on Toowoon Bay, and it has served as a hideaway for, among others, the defecting KGB officer, Vladimir Petrov, in the 1950s, the Rolling Stones and Michael Jackson.
Kims couldn't be more relaxing if it tried, with the ocean front and centre of the view throughout, and my villa right behind the beach, with big windows opening onto a deck and private garden, and a giant spa bath in which to luxuriate, at the back. I wake, on Sunday morning, to nippers being put through their paces, on the beach, by the local surrf club.
The previous night, after taking refuge from a furious storm that made the evening news, I fall into a relaxing regime, with dinner at the excellent in-house restaurant, which enjoys those same ocean views from on high in the resort.
While the decor is redolent of colonial times, with large fans whirring overhead and plenty of dark wood, there is nothing old-fashioned about this restaurant. My dinner of scallops lightly seared in chilli, ginger and lemongrass and Tasmanian salmon with juicy bok choy, and red curry and coconut sauce goes down beautifully.
The breakfast spread at Kims is equally impressive, with an actual honeycomb adorning the buffet table, along with home-made muffins and jams.
GLIDING ADVENTURE
On my second morning, I leave Kims to head inland to Mangrove Mountain, where I'm hoping to get as close as humanly possible to experiencing the flight of my spirit animal, with the Central Coast Soaring Club.
The club is centred on a 1.3-kilometre airfield, sandwiched between fruit plantations and heavily wooded slopes, and is run by passionate glider enthusiasts, who offer training and experience flights.
I am met by chief flying instructor Michael Vince and attend the daily briefing, at which it becomes clear that gliding is a team sport, with club members assigned various supporting roles, such as winch operator and safety officer.
The narrow Mangrove Mountain airfield requires a traditional launch, in which the glider is propelled into the air by a very long, strong rope - made from Dyneema, fine polyethylene fibre 15 times stronger than steel - pulled by a petrol-operated winch, from the far end of the runway.
My pilot today is a genial and remarkably spritely 84-year-old, with over 30 years gliding experience, Michael Woolley, and I am seated in the front of our two-seater, Polish-made Puchatek plane, with Woolley at the controls, behind me.
Once we're buckled in, the rope is fastened to the front and final checks are made, we are soon speeding along the runway. Seconds later we launch into the sky, on a steep 45-degree trajectory that creates the same sensation in my stomach as a roller-coaster, with Woolley pulling back hard on the joystick. Once we reach a safe height, there is a loud "click" as the rope detaches itself, and we are at the mercy of mother nature.
Or, as Woolley explains more memorably: "We do exactly the same as pelicans, using rising hot air or thermals to gain height. It's an intellectual exercise trying to find these pockets of rising air."
Our first flight is short but provides enough promise for another launch. This time, Woolley uses all his considerable experience to "work the thermals", extending our flight to 18 minutes. He also exhibits turns to both right and left and rapid height gains and losses, at between 1000-1200 feet (300-365metres), exploiting any instability in the atmosphere, usually found at the base of clouds.
With hot air less dense than cold and with a 16.8-metre wingspan - almost double that of a Cessna, gliders can travel forward 32 metres per metre they descend, reaching speeds of 50 knots (92kph).
Our second flight is exhilarating, and feels like a throwback to the early days of flight and "those magnificent men in their flying machines".
"Gliding is all about having fun," beams Woolley afterwards. "With commercial flying you usually have a mission, getting from place to place, but this is much more of an experience, like three-dimensional sailing."
For me, a Central Coast weekend inspired by pelicans has reached its zenith at Mangrove Mountain, as I soared, high above the earth, exactly like my beloved spirit animal.
CENTRAL COAST EVOLUTION
"Pelican Time" is not the only Central Coast attraction that has evolved in recent times. Other must-dos include:
# Cue and Crew, American BBQ, spilling out onto the pavement, in the Entrance North, and with a new outlet at Tuggerah. Their fall-off-the-fork meat dishes are smoked over slow-burning ironbark wood. Try the brisket cheeseburger and cheesy loaded fries with succulent pork belly. cueandcrew.com.au
# Mrs May at The Entrance Social Club, The renovated Entrance Hotel, at the heart of the action on Marine Parade, now includes this fresh bistro and bar, with al fresco courtyard. Try the smashed avo, salmon and umami bean Poke Bowl . theentrancesocialclub.com.au/mrs-may/
# Little Creek Cheese, multi award-winning family-made Wyong cheeses. littlecreekcheese.com.au
# Central Coast Information Centre, Marine Parade, The Entrance. Re-opened in April 2023, it Includes exhibits on the Little Tern population, found on Karagi Bay sandpit, north of the Entrance. lovecentralcoast.com/things-to-do/the-entrance/central-coast-visitor-centre
THE DETAILS
Kims Beachside Retreat has 34 bungalows and suites spread among littoral rainforest. Starting from $420 per room per night, they are several options, including a two-storey-unit with private pool. kims.com.au
Central Coast Soaring Club, 156 Bloodtree Road, Mangrove Mountain, offers single "taste of gliding" experiences for $135, double flights for $160. ccsoaring.com.au
Pelican Time Free educational experience held at 3.30pm on weekends, public holidays and daily during summer holidays. On Marine Parade, The Entrance. lovecentralcoast.com/pelican-time
More information: lovecentralcoast.com
