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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Alice Morrison

‘So unchanged it is almost otherworldly’: the oasis town of Skoura, Morocco

An ancient citadel in the oasis town of Skoura, Morocco, backdropped by the Atlas Mountains. Palm trees surround it
Kasbah Amridil in the oasis town of Skoura, Morocco, backdropped by the Atlas Mountains. The kasbah was founded in the 17th century and has a museum and rooms where visitors can stay. Photograph: Ron Yue/Alamy

The first thing I notice when I walk into the oasis is the temperature drop. Then, I hear the birdsong and the rustling of the palm trees. The harsh sun dims and there’s water and the smell of damp earth. It’s easy to understand why desert travellers yearned to reach these havens and why they have become synonymous with peace. I’m an explorer who’s walked through many oases with loaded camels, crossing Morocco and the Sahara on foot, but Skoura, a four-hour drive from Marrakech, is a place I visit to decompress.

You may be imagining some kind of cartoon mirage oasis – a sole date palm shimmering above the endless sands. In fact, Skoura has a population of around 3,000 people living in a small town on the edge of the palms with 10 sq miles (25 sq km) of agricultural land. Many visitors to Morocco start in Fez or Marrakech and stop off in Aït Benhaddou, then go down to the Sahara towns of Zagora or Merzouga. Skoura, less than an hour from Ouarzazate, is an ideal stop-off point for a couple of days, or you could combine it with a Marrakech city break. The bus from Marrakech (CTM or Supratours) takes six hours, or you can hire a car (or car with driver) from Marrakech or Fez.

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