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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Rachel Roddy

‘It honks a bit’: Rachel Roddy tests the best (and worst) supermarket pesto

Tessellated pesto jars lie carefully, even artificially arranged on their sides at a faint angle on a pale yellow background .
Basil faulty: some brands struggle to preserve the herb’s aroma. Photograph: Robert Billington/The Guardian

It is true that pesto is an incredibly useful jar to have in the cupboard. It is also true that pesto is a hard thing to preserve in a jar in a way that tastes nice. This is especially true if you are working to keep costs down – as consumers, we can all do ballpark sums for the cost of herbs, nuts, cheese and olive oil. I think one of the problems lies with the herbs’ tendency to get a bit muggy during processing, though some makers are doing quite a good job.

Just to be clear about nomenclature: pesto, from the Latin pestare, meaning to pound, is a generic word for a whole group of similar mixtures, the general guidelines being to mix any herb with any nut and with any cheese, then pour oil over the top. All the pestos I tasted fall into this general category, and they are called green pesto, Italian pesto or basil pesto. Pesto alla Genovese, on the other hand, is a specific mixture of basil, pine nuts, garlic, parmesan, pecorino and olive oil.

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