Before they were the Dolomites, they were known as the Monti Pallidi — the Pale Mountains. Formed from ancient coral reefs thrust upwards 60m years ago, the peaks are sheer sided — so they shed the snow and stand above the northern Italian valleys like vast palisades. And while they might be pale in themselves (mostly the rock is a light silvery grey) that means they act as a giant canvas for the elements, constantly changing colour, forever pulling at your gaze.
Down in the town of Cortina d’Ampezzo — the self-styled “Queen of the Dolomites” — we stood in the dark of a cold January morning. To the east, the rock spires of Monte Cristallo were a deep blue in the early shadows but above us the cliffs of the Tofana ridge were already glowing gold in the sunlight. It was 8.50am and we had a long day ahead.
