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The Guardian - US
The Guardian - US
World
Lois Beckett in Los Angeles

Searching for Silver Lake: the radical neighborhood that changed gay America

left: pride flag over sign that says 'RT'. Right: Palencia poses
Left: A gay pride flag flies over Rough Trade, a leather and fetish shop that has been open for over 20 years. Right: Roland Palencia, an LGBTQ+ activist and long time Silver Lake resident. Photograph: Madeline Tolle/The Guardian

We are driving up an almost vertical hill in a hip Los Angeles neighborhood, looking for one of the birthplaces of the gay civil rights movement. At the wheel is Roland Palencia, a gay activist who has lived and organized here for decades.

The Silver Lake Reservoir shines behind us, the hills around it crowded with bungalows. Silver Lake was once a Bohemian retreat, a neighborhood for artists and activists, and even, in the 40s and 50s, Communist party members. Now it’s impossible to buy the tiniest shack here for less than a million dollars.

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