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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Sam Haddad

Say no to fake snow: the Austrian ski resort that likes to keep it real

A mother and sun standing next to sleds at a signpost with views of mountaintops
Sledders on Dobratsch mountain. Photograph: Matjaz Corel/Alamy

Walking up a winding trail in the Dobratsch nature park in Carinthia, surrounded by picturesque snowy slopes dotted with pines, we hear shrieks coming from round the corner. The path is as wide as a one-way street but Birgit Pichorner, the park ranger I’m taking a tour with, motions for me to move to the side, where we watch a couple with wide grins glide past on a wooden toboggan.

We have seen families out hiking with young children and speed walkers pacing for the summit, while on a trail above us, four skiers are zigzagging up one of the nature park’s designated ski touring routes. For residents of Villach, the southern Austrian town at the foot of Dobratsch, this is very much their Hausberg, a much-loved “locals’ mountain”, says Birgit.

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