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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Adam Turner

Saunas, cinnamon buns and coastal scenery on the new rail route from Malmö to Oslo

The Kallbadhuset (the cold bath house) set on wooden piles above the Kattegat Sea in Varberg.
The Kallbadhuset (the cold bath house) set on wooden piles above the Kattegat sea in Varberg. Photograph: Patrick Kuenne/Getty Images

‘This carriage is due for modernisation. Don’t miss the opportunity to experience 90s Germany style,” reads the sign on the door to the dining carriage. The couple inside aren’t missing theirs: they’re taking endless selfies in the clinical pink-and-turquoise carriage that looks like a hospital canteen and smells like cinnamon buns and strong filter coffee.

I’m on Snälltåget’s iconic red-shelled train, on the Swedish rail company’s new route from Malmö to Oslo – a 6.5-hour journey along Sweden’s picturesque western corridor. Until now, the journey between the two cities involved long bus rides and fragmented train transfers. This direct line is easier and cheaper, with tickets starting at £11 each way. It’s already a hit, shuttling more than 25,000 passengers since launching this summer.

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