Stand at the right bank of the Triveni Sangam in Prayagraj on a January morning and the scene is not what most visitors picture. There is no dramatic rush of colour where rivers crash together. Instead, two enormous bodies of slow-moving water simply stop being separate, a blurred seam, a slight change in surface texture, the Yamuna running marginally darker than the Ganga beside it. The mythology is immense. The landscape is vast and quiet and a little anticlimactic, until you understand that the scale itself is the spectacle.
