San Lorenzo: Rome’s rebel neighbourhood shaped by resistance, art and students

San Lorenzo is a working class area of Rome, little frequented by tourists but full of cultural riches and great places to eat and drink. Photograph: Bloomberg/Getty Images

Why go now?

One of Europe’s hotspots, central Rome has increasingly come to resemble a tube station during rush hour: stifling, overpacked and claustrophobia-inducing. Last year, the Eternal City welcomed a record number of tourists, driven in part by the 2025 Vatican Jubilee - 22.9 million arrivals stayed in the city, almost 10 times the number of residents.