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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Grace Dent

Saltie Girl, London W1: ‘There is something slapdash about this place’ – restaurant review

The interior of Saltie Girl in Mayfair.
Saltie Girl, London W1: ‘In its defence, the service is delightful and the room is pretty.’ Photograph: Matthew Hague/The Guardian

First, let us tackle the name Saltie Girl, which, frankly, sounds less than delicious. Which parts of her are salty? Her armpits? Her toes? Her choice of language? The owners of Saltie Girl say the phrase is old Maine colloquial for mermaid, and have opened branches of this seafood-fixated restaurant in Boston, Los Angeles and, now, London. Over here, the name is just odd and slightly offputting, but then, when you’re selling lobster on waffle at £36 a throw, it’s not just the name that will be keeping casual passers-by at bay.

Saltie Girl has opened its London branch on North Audley Street in Mayfair, a stone’s throw from Selfridge’s in a locale that’s home to Apricity and Bibi, two restaurants I recommend everyone goes to if time, funds and occasion fit, both being outstanding examples of modern, innovative dining and fine service. Saltie Girl, on the other hand, is a highly expensive US import that sells shrimp cocktails, tinned fish and seafood towers, is backed by the people behind Meraki, and is aimed at their wealthy but not massively discerning audiences.

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