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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Sali Hughes

Sali Hughes on beauty: exosomes are all over TikTok, but are they really the next big thing in anti-ageing skincare?

Someone’s forearm and hand holding a round compact mirror with the reflection of a face in it, shot against a pale pink background
Model: Duni Koth @ Body London. Hair and makeup: Millie Glenister. Photograph: Kellie French/The Guardian

I attended a big skincare industry event in New York last autumn, at which people seemed to be discussing exosomes as though all other anti-ageing skincare products and methodology would soon be rendered redundant. I’ve read countless roundups of new exosome products since then (£430 for a serum!), and felt the inescapable buzz of a perceived major breakthrough in skincare, and so you know what I’m about to do, again. I’m going to suggest everyone calms the hell down and finds something more worthwhile to spend their money on.

Exosomes, in very basic terms, are tiny, naturally occurring parcels of material used as a communication device between skin cells. They can positively influence skin cell behaviour, such as regeneration and healing. Studies into whether extracted exosomes work in treatments for skin inflammation, hair growth and scarring are so far mostly small, pre-clinical and it must be said, very promising, albeit far from conclusive. We don’t yet know how best to extract exosomes, how stable they are, how they should be used to best effect, whether they will work topically, or what impact they may have on things like skin cancers.

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