
Review at a glance: ★★★★☆
Having weathered too many waiters’ lumbering sermons, I cling very closely to the idea that no one should dictate to anyone else how best to approach a restaurant. Do your thing: eat, drink, leave. Pay if you absolutely must. Whatever; you know the drill. I am, then, breaking a rule to petition anyone thinking about Sael — and think about it you should, it is a wonderful restaurant — to embrace loose-fitting fashion. Go baggy and ban the belt. Invest in an elastic waist. Sael is not a restaurant to let diners leave hungry; here is somewhere wanting its patrons slumped fain on the banquettes patting their newborn bellies. Generous doesn’t cut it. I saw skin-tight sorts arrive and shuddered in anticipatory sympathy.