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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
David Ellis

Sael review: A restaurant for anyone, for any time and for any occasion

Review at a glance: ★★★★☆

Having weathered too many waiters’ lumbering sermons, I cling very closely to the idea that no one should dictate to anyone else how best to approach a restaurant. Do your thing: eat, drink, leave. Pay if you absolutely must. Whatever; you know the drill. I am, then, breaking a rule to petition anyone thinking about Sael — and think about it you should, it is a wonderful restaurant — to embrace loose-fitting fashion. Go baggy and ban the belt. Invest in an elastic waist. Sael is not a restaurant to let diners leave hungry; here is somewhere wanting its patrons slumped fain on the banquettes patting their newborn bellies. Generous doesn’t cut it. I saw skin-tight sorts arrive and shuddered in anticipatory sympathy.

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