Gucci has announced Sabato de Sarno as its new creative director, ending months of speculation about who would be appointed to one of fashion’s most coveted roles.
De Sarno replaces Alessandro Michele whose departure from Gucci in November after 20 years — and eight in the top job — came amid reports that the Italian brand is said to be pursuing ambitious growth targets. While Michele tripled Gucci’s revenues between 2015 and 2019, in recent years it has been left in the wake of brands including Saint Laurent which is, like Gucci, owned by Kering Group.
Naples-born De Sarno, 39, is relatively unknown but there’s nothing novice about him. Gucci’s chief executive, Marco Bizzarri said in a statement that De Sarno has “vast and relevant experience”. This includes doing some serious heavy lifting at Valentino’s design studio for the last 13 years where he headed up both men’s and women’s ready-to-wear. He was also instrumental in bringing a contemporary sleekness to the brand’s classic and romantic designs: he is close to Valentino’s creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli who is both a professional inspiration and a friend. De Sarno is even rumoured to have worked on Nicola Peltz’s custom couture dress for her wedding to Brookyn Beckham.
Prior to Valentino, De Sarno worked at Prada and Dolce & Gabbana.
“He will lead our creative teams with a distinctive vision that will help write this exciting next chapter, reinforcing the house’s fashion authority while capitalising on its rich heritage,” said Bizzarri.
Meanwhile, François-Henri Pinault, chairman & CEO of Kering said: “One hundred and two years after Guccio Gucci opened his first store in Florence, Gucci remains one of the most iconic, prominent and influential luxury houses in the world. With Sabato De Sarno at the creative helm, we are confident that the House will continue both to influence fashion and culture through highly desirable products and collections, and to bring a singular and contemporary perspective to modern luxury.”
De Sarno is an understated choice - he has ‘only’ 30.5k followers on Instagram which is a shrine to text-based art and vivid colour with occasional posts about his adorable daschund.
While it is impossible to predict exactly what De Sarno’s Gucci will offer, certainly, it will be a departure from Michele’s pieces which were bold, pattern-heavy and a riot of gender fluid maximalism, winning Gucci legions of Gen Z fans and celebrity endorsement. Both Harry Styles and Jared Leto leaned heavily into Gucci’s pearls and pussy bows.
It is likely De Sarno’s collections, which will not be shown until Milan Fashion Week this September, will be anchored in heritage and understated classic design.
“I am deeply honoured to take on the role as creative director of Gucci,” he said. “I am proud to join a house with such an extraordinary history and heritage, that over the years has been able to welcome and cherish values I believe in. I am touched and excited to contribute my creative vision for the brand.”
