In this series of reviews, we’ll be sending our writers to Scottish football grounds to review the supporter experience across the country. We begin at Rugby Park, where James Cairney took in Kilmarnock’s 3-2 defeat at home to Rangers.
Transport and local amenities
The 20-minute stroll from the train station to Rugby Park is a fairly pleasant one and so straightforward that it would be very difficult to somehow lose your way. A few pubs and takeaways are scattered along the main road during the first half of the journey – ideal fayre for weary travellers like this bold reporter – before you find yourself dawdling along a residential avenue lined with townhouses on either side. You can’t quite see the stadium yet but you can certainly hear it.
I have some time to kill before the game gets under way, though, so a brief pit-stop beforehand sounds like just the ticket. All this reviewing is thirsty work, it transpires. On the recommendation of a friend I was pointed in the direction of the Portmann Hotel. It looks a bit unassuming from the outside but inside it’s vibrant and full of life as punters excitedly discuss the match to come: here was an outlandish prediction of the full-time score; there an incredulous fan in staring in utter disbelief at the television that that’s the team the manager went with?
It seems liked a mixed crowd, as far as I can tell. There are certainly a fair few away fans here – a supporters’ bus pulled up outside just as I arrived – but there is no hint of animosity and everyone is friendly. The pub itself is spacious, featuring a couple of different lounges and a beer garden at the back, and although it’s rammed the staff ensure every customer is served with astonishing speed. I’d barely taken my gloves off before I had a pint in my hand for the reasonable price of £3.50 – although, I was a little disappointed to be handed a plastic cup rather than a glass.
After diligently conducting my thorough investigation of the local drinking establishment (okay, fine – drinking my pint) it was once again time to hit the road. Fortunately, the pub was just a few minutes away from the ground and it wasn’t long before I turned a corner and saw Rugby Park towering over me.
Facilities, vendors and entering the stadium
There was still around 20 minutes to go until kick-off when and I was feeling a little peckish. I kept my eyes peeled for a food van selling deep-fried this or grilled that but alas, my efforts were in vain. My attempt to get my hands on a matchday programme was equally fruitless. I was later informed that Killie instead produce a monthly magazine – an understandable approach in this digital age – but as anachronistic as it may be, I was still a little disappointed to leave empty-handed.
Apart from the hotel stationed just across the road, there wasn’t much at all outside the ground. There were no programme vendors (obviously), no enterprising fans selling scarves, hats and flags and the like – just supporters making their way through the turnstiles and towards the stands. All the entrances were clearly signposted and the gates themselves were staffed. The queuing took a matter of seconds, as did the process of having my ticket’s QR code scanned. I’d bought my ticket online in advance and an email was sent to my phone, although I felt charging £30 was a little steep.
I was sitting in the East Stand – the first time I’d been to this part of the ground – and I pause for a moment to admire the almost-brutalist concrete steps that carried supporters to the stand above. It is an old stand, yes, but it has character; far more than some modern stadia that feel like they were constructed out of a mass-produced Lego kit.
I decide to visit the facilities. Finding them was no problem, nor was there a long wait, but the ice-cold water coming out of the supposedly hot taps on an already freezing night did not make washing your hands a particularly pleasant experience.
Food
As I exit onto the concourse, a mouth-watering scent forces me to pick up the pace. The kitchens are up and running, and queues of punters 10-deep are dotted along the length of the stand. There are plenty of kiosks to choose from and the wait is only a minute or two, so I decide another indulgence is in order.
There is the usual selection of fizzy and hot drinks, and the food on offer is pretty much what you’d expect – scotch pies, hot dogs, burgers and so on – with one notable exception, of course: the Kilmarnock pie. For an intrepid interloper such as myself, there is only one option. I get a pie for £3.80 but initially decide to hold fire before tucking into it. Comprised of steak and gravy, I deduce that I might want to be sitting when I eat it. A quick glance downwards raises concerns over the pastry’s structural integrity.
My stomach gets the better of me, though, and I can wait no longer. I take a bite and instantly, I realise with a heavy heart that my worst fears were true. The pie’s filling is utterly delicious but the pastry seems a little undercooked and it’s flimsy, causing its contents to spill all over the place. The tin casing catches most of the debris and I still shamelessly scoff the lot, but I’d hoped for a little more from one of Scottish football’s most mythologised culinary delights.
Seating
I wander up a staircase – again, clearly signposted so I knew I was in the right section – and find my seat with minimal fuss. I have a good view, it’s easy to reach my seat, it’s clean (which is never a guarantee at a football match) and there’s a decent amount of legroom. It’s busy where I’m sat but there’s no danger of feeling overcrowded and there are plenty of stewards on hand keeping an eye out.
I look around Rugby Park; it’s filling up nicely. There’s about 10 minutes until kick-off and the away stand, populated by Rangers fans, is full to the brim and in strong voice. So too are the home supporters, passionately belting out their favourite tunes to the beat of a drum. The atmosphere is building.
Atmosphere
Somewhere in there, the football began. The game itself was entertaining with Kilmarnock getting off to a blistering start and taking the lead on five minutes to the sheer delight of the Rugby Park faithful. My ears prick up as I’m curious what goal music Killie have opted for. It turns out to be Bits ‘N’ Pieces – a safe bet, to be sure, but undeniably a banger.
The East Stand was raucous, boisterous and triumphant as they hailed their heroes and poured scorn on their opponents in equal measure. The crowd recited their favourite hits from the Kilmarnock songbook. Their spirits aren’t dampened when Alfredo Morelos – who assumed his usual role as pantomime villain in the home supporters’ eyes – drew Rangers level and there’s a nice buzz about the place when the game reaches half-time.
Even when Killie found themselves two goals and a man down in the second half, supporters remained in fine voice and when Joe Wright set up a frenetic finish by pulling one back with five minutes to go with a sumptuous volley, the old stadium roared to life. The fans never did get that equaliser in the end but most seemed satisfied that the players had given their all.
Then it was time to go. Getting out of the stadium was stress-free and didn’t take long, nor did the walk back to the station – although that may have been due to necessity, given there weren’t too many trains running beyond full-time. I make it in time though and as I sink into the comfort of my seat, I reflect on an honest day’s work. It’s a tough job but someone’s got to do it.
Transport and local amenities: 4/5
Facilities, vendors and entering the stadium: 2/5
Food: 4/5
Atmosphere: 4/5
Total: 14/20
