Inextricably linked to the past glamour of the Costa Smeralda, the Romazzino relaunched this year under the management of Belmond Hotels. It promises a new era of dolce vita in this rugged landscape of juniper and myrtle which runs down to a crystal-clear, sometimes green, sometimes turquoise, sea.
Where is it?
In the northeast of the island, brimming with tiny golden coves washed by diaphanous waters. Romazzino sits beside the sea and is a twenty-minute drive south of chic Porto Cervo, the main town of the Costa Smeralda, where yachts jostle in the harbour and streets are lined with high-end boutiques and lively restaurants. Once an unspoilt region of wild beauty, with rough granite stazzi (the typical houses of this area) dotting the landscape, it was developed by Prince Karim Aga Khan IV in the early 1960s into a swathe of stylishly designed, luxurious resorts, villas and hotels, which respected the environment and local heritage and became the go-to summer destination for the cognoscenti.
Gearing up to become a hotspot next year, Belmond Romazzino will soon be joined by a Cheval Blanc, a Rocco Forte Hotel and a Mandarin Oriental making this the latest destination for luxe-seeking travellers.
Style
Designed in 1965 by Michele Busiri Vici (who came from a family of Italian architects who have been active since the 17th century), the soft, fluid lines of Romazzino are typical of the architect’s iconic Mediterranean style. A style which can also be seen in the lovely Stella Maris Church in Porto Cervo, which he designed with his son Giancarlo, and which houses an El Greco painting. The architecture of Romazzino was inspired by the old dwellings of local fishermen. Its low, white buildings are curved and cornerless, seeming almost to move with the wind. Over-layering them, vibrant pink bougainvillea cascades under a deep blue Sardinian sky.
Belmond has completed the first phase of its refurbishment since it took control of the resort at the beginning of this year, but already it has the feel of some of Belmond’s elegant sister properties in Italy from the Caruso on the Amalfi coast to the Splendido in Portofino.
This winter, the rooms will be renovated adding in 21st century touches, contemporary art and that easy atmosphere which encourages holidaying the Italian way or the tradition of the Villeggiatura (meditating in one place) which the Belmond group’s Italian properties strongly promote.
Food & Drink
With Chef Dario Parascandolo at the helm, restaurants are pitch-perfect with local, seasonal, ingredients showcasing the rich culinary heritage of this island. Try the sea bass with tomato crust, friggitello sweet peppers and sage broth or the Tortelli stuffed with aubergine and ricotta cheese in Restaurant La Terrasse, where sea views fight for attention with the food.
Éntu e Mari (between the wind and the sea) is the beach grill; think Sardinian fregola with seafood, grilled octopus or traditional clam and mussel soup with Sardinian bread.
The Beach Bar serves tasty snacks such as Schiacciata flatbread stuffed with prosciutto, mozzarella and rocket. But we recommend starting the evening off with a cocktail at The Ginepro Bar, named after the juniper wood that is found in so many of the traditional houses on the island. Here, amidst the clink of ice, the rattle of a cocktail mixer and the strains of music, you can find the glamour that brought the stars back time and again in the 1960s and 70s, from Audrey Hepburn to Grace Kelly, from Catherine Deneuve to Princess Margaret; all captured so memorably by Slim Aarons.
Facilities
The Rosemary Wellness & Spa has an extensive treatment menu using brands such as Natura Bissé, Philiosphia Botanica and Sardinia’s own In Aéras. The latter skilfully fuses ancient remedies with new botanical compositions.
There is a Pilates and Yoga studio, including Pilates Reformer equipment, and an outdoor gym, tennis and water sports to explore.
Keen fitness fiends should try the Pevero Health Trail which winds its way through Pevero and Romazzino, through the Bay of Porto Liccia and Grande Pevero and has 11 exercise station along its 13-kilometre route.
Extracurricular
Foodies should head to La Ciminèa to try their hands at making ancient Sardinian recipes under the expert tutelage of Chef Gianfranco Mameli. From malloreddos, the traditional local dumplings to Busa maccaroni he explains how the island cuisine evolved. All accompanied, of course, with an exploration of Sardinian wines. If that whets your whistle for more, head over to Surrau Winery. Many of their grapes are vermentino, but they also do a lovely red Barriu.
Culture seekers should visit the Tomb of the Giants, a 15-metre long megalithic monument and San Pantaleo village, a 17th century gem with craft shops and art galleries. Shoppers will be more than satisfied by the high end boutiques of Port Cervo.
Which Room?
Opt for a villa, if you want space or are with the family, as they are gorgeous. White-washed, curvaceous and covered with bougainvillea opening out onto a large pool with the sea sparkling in the distance. Three-bedroom interiors are luxurious, inviting indolence with their warm, kick-off-your-heels vibe. Rooms come with terraces and sea views, terracotta-tiled floors which are cool to the feet, and pretty, hand-carved furniture.
Best for
Those intent on living the dolce far niente, hopping on and off boats, trying restaurants and striking a pose against the famous shimmering, emerald-hued, waters. But also for people who appreciate the easy luxury that Romazzino provides, where everything just seems to go your way — the dolce vita in fact.
The Details
Doubles from €700 including breakfast. belmond.com
