I recently told a few friends that I had tasted the latest release of Roderer Cristal - this from the 2014 vintage in Champagne. “How was it?,” one individual asked. This was not an idle question, as this was a friend who closely follows the latest trends from the region and tastes numerous current releases; as he had not heard much in the way of great reports about this vintage, he wondered if the 2014 Cristal was anything special.
As you’ll see from my review at the end of this article, the wine was indeed quite alluring. It is different from the last two releases of 2012 and 2013, but then again, it should be, as this is a prestige cuvée that reflects the particulars of each growing season. Recent releases, such as 2012 and 2008, display the variances in the vintages and in the finished wines; 2008 was a powerful vintage throughout Champagne, while 2012 was more refined. Yet both were first-rate examples of Cristal, which is saying something.
Cristal was first produced by the house of Louis Roederer of Reims in 1876 for Tsar Alexander II of Russia, who was an enthusiast of the firm’s Champagnes, but wanted something a bit more unique. That original release was packaged in a crystal bottle, hence the name, and for almost 150 years, the name Cristal has come to be identified with this highly distinctive, iconic Champagne.
Given the value of this marque and its familiarity with consumers around the world, it would be easy for the principals at Roederer to rest on their laurels. Thankfully, this has not been the case, as CEO Frédéric Rouzaud and cellar master Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon have consistently made the necessary efforts to elevate Roederer Cristal to even greater heights. The house is among the leading proponents of biodynamic farming, and since 2012, Cristal is made entirely from grapes farmed with this approach; the image above shows how these vineyards are tended by plow horses, eliminating a great deal of human and chemical intervention.
The rainy, cool climate of Champagne can make biodynamic farming, with its specific demands (no pesticides, the use of supplements in the soil), a rather difficult task in this region, yet Roederer has endorsed this manner of viticulture for the past two decades. The results have been remarkable, as the style of Cristal, as well as its other top cuvées has become more refined. I used to think of Cristal as a powerhouse Champagne that was a bit disjointed upon release, but the wine for me now is more elegant than ever, as yes, more distinguished.
So getting back to the 2014. It’s not the same style as the 2008 or 2012, two remarkable vintages, nor should it be. 2014 was rather rainy during the spring, and early predictions were not great, but as noted on the Roederer website, “September was hot, sunny, and very dry ... weather we would usually associate with the month of August.” This resulted in ideal ripening, while acidity levels were excellent; the resulting wine displays impeccable harmony.
So the 2014 Roederer Cristal is another great success; open a bottle and you’ll not only impress your guests, but you’ll also be thrilled at how graceful, complex, and yes, delicious, this cuvée truly is!
2014 Roederer Cristal - A blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay; 32% of the wine was aged in oak; dosage of 7 grams per liter (thus a Brut classification). Light yellow with a beautiful, persistent stream of small bubbles. Lovely aromas of pear, lemon zest and magnolia. Medium-full, the wine glides across the palate; there is an extremely lengthy finish that is remarkably polished and sensual. Never overpowering in any aspect, this is as elegant and as understated a release of this wine in several years. Absolutely delicious now, this has the acidity and texture to drink well for many years - a signature of Cristal - with peak in 10-12 years or perhaps a few years longer. (94)
blended from vineyards in Grand Cru villages in the Montagne de Reims, the Marne
