A week after dressing Rihanna for the Super Bowl performance, JW Anderson has presented his latest collection at London Fashion Week.
The Northern Irish designer was responsible for the pop star’s all-red jumpsuit and breastplate ensemble at the 2023 half-time show, which confirmed her second pregnancy.
Jonathan Anderson – who is also creative director of Loewe – collaborated with Scottish choreographer Michael Clark for his autumn/winter 2023 show held at London’s Roundhouse.
Celebrities in the front row included Alexa Chung, Romeo Beckham, models Naomi Campbell and Jourdan Dunn as well as actors Kit Connor and Yasmin Finney.
Models walked around three huge cubes emblazoned with irreverent designs that sat in the middle of the circular catwalk space.
A bright red cube featured a Coca-Cola style logo that read ‘Enjoy God’s Disco. Is there nightlife after death?’
A female bagpiper performed (a homage to Clark’s origins) before a soundtrack of electronic dance music took over.
The nightclub theme continued with the clothing and the show opened with a model wearing black flared trousers and a white vest top printed with Michael Clark’s name in neon green.
More slinky flares followed, teamed with strapless ‘going out’ tops alongside A-line dresses and trousers with wide ‘wings’ that extended from the hips.
The colour palette largely consisted of muted tones with pops of colour coming from accessories such as green patent trainers, an orange feather boa and a neon yellow tote bag.
A few of the looks featured subversive designs, such as a bright yellow jumpsuit with an upside down smiley face and the dress that appeared to be made out of Tesco carrier bags.
Anderson mixed traditional masculine elements – such as oversized tailoring, knitwear and hoodies – with floaty dresses and feather and tassel detailing.
Some of the models wore minimalist trainers or heeled mules, while others walked the runway in just white ankle socks.
In an interview ahead of the show, Anderson said he has been a long-time fan of Clark.
“When I was at university, he was like a God in terms of his performances, the posters, the outfits that he wore,” he told WWD.
“He was part of a moment where creatives, designers and artists all worked together.”
He also compared the choreographer to legendary fashion designer Vivienne Westwood, who died in Decemeber.
“I think that when you look at Britain, there is always this amazing type of anxiety in clothing, something we’re realising now with the loss of Vivienne Westwood,” he said.
“Ultimately, she is the godmother of British fashion because she went against the system and she was rejected for it.”
