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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Lizzie Pook

Return to Oz — how to maximise your (long-awaited) trip Down Under

Australia has been locked down and off-limits for over two years. But from today (Monday 21), the borders will be flung open (to vaccinated tourists and be sure to check restrictions before you travel as they do vary from state to state).

So whether you want to eat your way around Sydney’s coolest suburbs or scour the waters for crocs in the tropical Top End, here’s our guide to the best food, hotels and experiences on offer Down Under.

New South Wales

Go for… City vibes, glorious beaches and iconic landmarks.

Stay… The bright, botanical-filled Kimpton Margot Sydney is one of NSW’s most anticipated new openings. The vibe is inner-city wellness, with free yoga mats and a rooftop swimming pool. Elsewhere, the wallet-friendly Blue Water Motel in Kingscliff has just been reimagined by renowned designer Jason Grant, while a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Sydney will take you to The Jackson Ranch, set amongst acres of natural forest where you’ll have nothing but the chatter of corellas for company.

Eat… Merivale’s new gem MuMu is a cult-classic in the making, offering South-East Asian inspired street food with a twist. Londres 126 in Quay Quarter Lanes — named after the address of Frida Kahlo — is a homage to Mexico City’s vibrant food scene, while the list-topping Quay in the historic Rocks district, remains one of the most impressive fine dining spots in Australia.

Do... Sydney is the queen of the bucket-list experience — whether that’s catching a show at the Opera House or climbing the dizzy heights of the Harbour bridge. You’ll find beaches galore throughout the state, from buzzy Bondi to (David Attenborough’s favourite) Lord Howe Island, but there’s a real culture fix to be had here too, with the Australian Museum offering a wealth of First Nations exhibitions and the Museum of Contemporary Art which holds its own on the global art scene.

Explore Nitmiluk National Park (Tourism NT/Jason Charles Hill)

Northern Territory

Go for… Croc-filled swamps, stunning sunsets and eclectic food.

Stay... You’ll find true outback luxury at Bamurru Plains and the new Finniss River Lodge, built alongside the vast coastal floodplains of the Top End. Elsewhere, Katherine Outback Experience has just unveiled its new dry season glamping experience —with king beds in spacious bell tents and days spent horse riding and exploring Nitmiluk National Park. Meanwhile, the chic safari-styled villas at Freshwater Retreat are within striking distance of Darwin’s Nightcliff Foreshore.

Eat... Darwin is home to an incredible Asian food scene, which can be sampled at stand-out joints Little Miss Korea, Hanuman and kitschy-cool Chow. Locals sate their biryani cravings at Amma’s Cafe inside the Vic Arcade and the much-celebrated Pee Wee’s at the Point serves up kangaroo carpaccio, pearl meat and crocodile wrapped in betel leaf.

Do... National parks reign supreme here, so tarry a while and explore the pristine billabongs, waterfalls and bursting-with-birds forests of Kakadu and Litchfield. Sleep out in the Red Centre and pay a visit to the hallowed Uluru, or embark on Ethical Adventures’ Best in the Wet tour to see incredible lightning shows, wild waterfalls and moody escarpment country in the Top End’s Tropical Summer.

Secluded outback resort Mt Mulligan Lodge (Mt Mulligan Lodge)

Queensland

Go for… Tropical luxury, fine dining and lashings of wildlife.

Stay... Far north Queensland is a haven of ancient rainforests and eco-luxe accommodation, including Mt Mulligan Lodge — an irresistibly secluded, all-inclusive outback resort — and the new-look Silky Oaks Lodge in the Daintree. Further south in the Sunshine Coast village of Eumundi, the 15 uniquely designed guest rooms at the new HOLA (House of Local Art) have a tropical feel and walls covered with the work of local artists, while the newly-opened Hotel X brings five-star luxe to Brisbane’s Fortitude Valley.

Eat... At the new Agnes in Brisbane, you’ll find hearty wood-fired cooking set in an restored old brick Warehouse. Slightly smarter is Elska, an ambitious degustation-only fine diner where the menu includes powdered crickets, emu crudo and crocodile tail dumpling. Down on the Gold Coast, Labart might not look like much from the outside, but its exquisite single list menu make it one of the buzziest spots in Queensland.

Do... After years of tireless campaigning, The Daintree — the world’s oldest tropical rainforest — was recently handed back to its traditional owners, the Eastern Kuku Talanji people. Support Indigenous business such as Adventure North or Walkabout Cultural Adventures by booking directly for small personalised tours or pair the rainforest with the reef on a new citizen science tour with Passions of Paradise.

The Clare Valley Wilderness Wine Trail (Clare Valley vineyard)

South Australia

Go for… Coastal road trips, kangaroos and sprawling vineyards.

Stay... There’s a trend for small, off-grid houses in South Australia, including the new Tiny Rosie in Barossa, where you can trade watching Netflix with gazing at the stars. Two hours away you’ll find one of the most unique Airbnb propositions around: The Station, a beautifully converted 19th century railway station in Kapunda. Winery sleepovers also abound and one of the best to open last year was The Old Chaff Mill Retreat, McLaren Vale, set in a Shiraz vineyard where vines meet the ocean.

Eat... The capital of Adelaide is a hive of different cuisines from North African spices at Africola to Napoli-style pizza at Madre. Elsewhere, Coriole in McLaren Vale regularly tops best-of lists for its big homegrown earth and sea flavours, while Topiary, a garden centre café in the north-eastern suburbs of Adelaide, puts a fine dining twist on zero waste cooking.

Do... South Australia’s waters are the only place in the world where giant cuttlefish aggregate annually en masse, and PureSA offer eye-popping swim tours with the creatures in late June and early July. The Clare Valley Wilderness Wine Trail is a new walking and cycling trail for nature-loving foodies, while Kangaroo Island is a must-visit spot for those into seals, stunning shorelines and a spot of oyster shucking (book a tour with Kangaroo Island Odysseys).

Nomad restaurant is new to Melbourne (Nomad)

Victoria

Go for… A buzzing art scene, design hotels and easy-to-access wilderness.

Stay... For a spot of seclusion, Cassis Red Hill is an intimate collection of five luxuriously appointed villas in the hinterland of the Mornington Peninsula, (get to the design-focused Jackalope too, if you can). United Places and Zagame’s House are two of the coolest spots to stay in inner-city Melbourne, but if it’s space you’re after, make a group booking at the impressively restored Rutherglen Convent in the city’s wine making district.

Eat... After whipping up a cult following in Sydney’s Surry Hills, the much-loved Nomad has arrived in Melbourne with a moreish menu featuring raw kingfish and oozy burrata with fennel jam. Coming soon to the iconic Fed Square is Victoria, helmed by Farmer’s Daughter’s executive chef Alejandro Saravia, sourcing niche ingredients from local farmers and regional venues.

Do... Victoria is roughly the size of the UK, with beaches, national parks and coastlines easily reachable from its arty capital of Melbourne. But a prime way to escape the city and explore the Mornington Peninsula is with eco-adventure company Wild Adventures Melbourne. Guests cycle, paddle-board or bushwalk to spectacular locations before feasting on a picnic of local produce.

Off-grid accommodation in South Australia (MATT WRIGHT + KAIA ACCOMODATION)

Tasmania

Go for… rugged coastlines, boundary-pushing art and off-grid escapes

Stay... The much hyped The Tasman – connecting the city’s pioneering past with its contemporary culture – has just opened its doors in Hobart, while The Henry Jones Art Hotel and the Mona Pavilions still draw in Tassie’s coolest crowds.

Eat... Tasmania certainly punches above its weight and the island is a hotbed of farm-to-fork restaurants and seafood spots. The bucket list Dier Makr in Hobart and The Agrarian Kitchen Eatery (located in an old mental asylum) in New Norfolk are classy spots to add to your must-eat-at list.

Do... Tassie’s irreverent, headline-making gallery MONA underwent refurbishment during lockdown so is well worth a visit. But this is a land of off-grid adventure, and Tassie’s prehistoric forests and unspoilt coastlines are ripe for exploring. Be sure not to miss The Bay of Fires – rugged beaches laden with vibrant orange boulders on the northeastern coast – and Maria Island, a site of troubling convict history where possums, pademelons and wombats roam free (and kangaroos often sunbake on the beaches).

EcoCaddy Adelaide (South Australian tourism)

Western Australia

Go for… boutique brilliance, impressive marine life and otherworldly natural beauty

Stay... WA is a spectacularly large state (its capital Perth is the most isolated capital city in the world), but COMO The Treasury, housed in the city’s old state buildings, and the QT are some of the finest places to stay while ‘in town’. Take a ferry out to Rottnest Island for a gander at the quokkas (unfeasibly cute marsupials) and stay at the beachfront Samphire too, which hasn’t yet had a look-in from international visitors since it opened during lockdown.

Eat... At Wildflower in Perth, the menu is driven by the Indigenous culinary calendar, while the neon décor at Long Chim matches the flavour hit supplied by its tasty Thai dishes. In Margaret River, be sure to visit some of the finest winery restaurants around, including the iconic Vasse Felix and the playful Wills Domain.

Do... If you like your holidays soaked in something strong, take a three-day gin tour of the Margaret River region with Hidden de Tours. But if it’s encounters with the natural world you’re after, do visit the newly upgraded underwater observatory at Bussleton – at the end of the 1.8km jetty, you can descend eight metres beneath the water’s surface to view marine creatures (including whales) in their natural habitat. If you’re venturing further north to the Kimberley, stop in at the beautiful old pearling town of Broome to learn about a dangerous industry where men faced off with sharks, storms and crocodiles, all in pursuit of shining pearl shell.

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