
So, there’s no tea in the teapot. No teabags, I mean. Or tea leaves. None at all.
And yes, I know what you’re thinking: isn’t this meant to be about Northcote, Lisa Goodwin Allen’s northern powerhouse of an eating house, where she does magnificent things with chickens and raspberries and quiches and scallops? It is. And yet, here am I, banging on about tea.