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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Ruby Tandoh

Reheated rivalry: why I’m the champion of leftovers

Ruby Tandoh’s reheated pizza slice
Ruby Tandoh’s reheated pizza slice Photograph: Phoebe Pearson/The Guardian. Food styling: El Kemp. Art direction and prop styling: Tabitha Hawkins.

There is nothing lovelier than seeing a cook do their thing. By “doing their thing”, I do not mean just going about kitchen work – that is often excruciating to watch (why are they cutting onions like that?) I mean doing their thing: their culinary equivalent of a Mastermind subject, that one dish or process that they do so well, and with such evident pride, that the most crotchety backseat cook is forced to shut up.

Take my partner’s method for making fish-finger sandwiches, which involves frying the fish fingers in butter, then creating an in-pan sweatbox to melt artisanal cheese on to them and custom blending condiments. It creates, on average, as much washing up as a full cooked dinner. Others have a special pancake hack or carrot cake recipe, and people tend not to let these things go unnoticed – it’s always my salad dressing, possessive, but we forgive their hubris, because each of us has “A Thing” of our own.

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