
It’s twilight when I arrive at RAKxa Integrative Wellness, a curiously-named health retreat found 45 minutes outside of Bangkok. The sky is streaked with painterly strokes of lilac and gold. It may be early evening in Thailand, but I’m wide awake due to the fact that it is six hours ahead of the UK. I’m here to try out a brand-new sleep programme, and I am wondering if flying half way around the world was the best idea to improve my sleep hygiene.
Yet — just a few minutes in, following a ceremonial welcome of ringing singing-bowls echoing around me, RAKxa already feels like a peaceful antidote to modern life, instantly calming after the high-adrenalin arrival into Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport — the busiest airport in the world.