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The Guardian - AU
The Guardian - AU
World
Tess McClure in Auckland

Rare, precious, smells like whale: hunting for ambergris in New Zealand

Man's face leaning over a piece of white ambergris with thin tendril of smoke rising from it
Ambergris is melted with a hot needle to test the scent. Photograph: Fiona Goodall/The Guardian

Frans Beuse sits at his kitchen table, examining what looks like an array of rocks. Using a slim, sharpened blade he scrapes each in turn, producing five mounds of powder: bright white, deep caramel, tarry black.

Lighting a candle, he holds a thick needle into the flame, then into the powder, which smokes and bubbles into glossy liquid. Beuse leans forward, closing his eyes, and draws a thin tendril of smoke into his left nostril.

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