Ramadan starts this week, a special month that marks a period of reflection, contemplation, and celebration for Muslims across the globe.
Its arrival means thousands of Muslims across London will begin their daily fast: no food or water to be consumed before sunset for 30 days.
It’s no mean feat. At the start of the period, iftar, the meal at which the fast can be broken, will arrive at around 6.30pm, in the early evening. By late April, thanks to the changing clocks, sunset is not until after eight o’clock.
But what to eat? Restaurants across the capital are coming to the aid of hungry Ramadan-observers by taking measures to make your iftar – the name given to the meal which breaks fast – even more welcome. Below are top spots either laying on special menus, or serving beautiful halal food ideal after sundown.
Benares
On from March 22 until April 20, the Michelin-starred Indian stalwart Benares has laid on what looks to be a fine Iftar feast. Begin with samosas, here at their very best, beautiful, addictively-spiced parcels of joy, and follow with a choice of their vibrant curry or hearty biryani. Complimentary dates (khajoor) — significant as the Prophet himself is said to have broken his fast with dates — follow the meal and guests can top up with a traditional south Asian lassi, a refreshing drink made gently fragrant with spices and yoghurt.
Until April 20, 12a Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS, benaresrestaurant.com
Honey & Smoke
This will be the first in-person Iftar hosted at Honey and Smoke since the pandemic hit, making it particularly special for co-founder Itamar Srulovich. “Iftar is such a huge part of the middle eastern calendar….we are so happy to be back hosting in person this year”, he says.
The menu will feature house specials and Arabian classics; medjool dates, platters of mezze including labaneh (labneh), stuffed aubergine rolls, breads and zaatar oils, olives, and falafel. Halal mains including garlic chicken shish and lamb shish are to be served alongside tabuleh, freekeh and salads. The Honey and Co cheesecake arrives in bite-sized portions as a suitably sweet end to the feast. Zakat is the celebration of charitable giving during Ramadan and Honey and Smoke’s Iftar is no exception — 10 per cent of menu sales are set to go to the Turkey and Syria earthquake relief fund.
216 Great Portland Street, W1W 5QW, honeyandco.co.uk/places/honey-smoke
Ritu Seasons of India
St John’s Wood has a handful of pleasing Indian restaurants and Ritu Seasons of India is among the best. During the holy month of Ramadan, it is offering a short tasting menu serving up traditional iftar platters. Dates, fruits, laban — the fermented buttermilk drink — and rose and nut sherbet all feature, before samosas and pakoras arrive. For mains, both the classic chukander chicken tikka and nawabi lamb chapali kebabs will be served, along with traditional bread; cheese kulcha naan and masala. At £30 per person, this one feels particularly generous.
1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH, ritu.london
Berenjak
The pan-middle eastern menu predominantly based on Iranian cuisine from Berenjak has been nothing short of a hit. A smash hit. While it’s yet to be announced what 2023’s Iftar fast-breaking menu will look like — or even if they’ll host one at all — but with a largely halal and highly pleasing core offering, whether they announce anything or not, this favourite is sure to be a solid bet.
27 Romilly Street, W1D 5AL & 1 Bedale Street, SE1 9AL, berenjaklondon.com
Darjeeling Express
Asma Khan’s celebrity-adored restaurant Darjeeling Express returned to Soho’s kingly court earlier this year and the set dinner menu, £65-a-head each, is a true feast. Methi chicken with dried fenugreek leaves enriching a tomato sauce base, zeera phalli with cumin and red chillies, a Bengali classic of prawn malaikari; all dishes that speak to Khan’s inherent generosity which in turn come served with a vast plethora of accompaniments. When making a booking, reference the meal is for iftar.
