The arrival of more inclement weather needn’t mean the departure of al fresco dining in town. While the long warm nights of smoked salmon and something fizzy in the sun may be over, we can make way for cozier surroundings, autumnal foliage draped about the place and possibly a small cashmere throw.
Being the UK, rain is the ever-haunting ghoul known to dampen proceedings and stop play. But with quite the glut of heated and well-covered outside spaces, we needn’t be averse to restaurants kitted out to assuage such weather-based foreboding.
Here, we round up a number of these al fresco options with outside, sometimes rooftop terraces, but which can be or are already covered (and sometimes heated) too, just in case.
Chiltern Firehouse
Once restaurant number one for celebrity spotting, Chiltern Firehouse is less obvious today. The chances of dining next to Kylie Minogue have diminished a little. But the place remains a hotspot, a fun West London bolt hole equipped and primed for a debaucherous jaunt. On the terrace: oysters, champagne, vodka rigatoni, dainty crab tartlets, fried chicken, roast chicken, all manner of steaks and caviar. Each and every one helps to bring a wealth of vibes outside once autumn arrives.
1 Chiltern Street, W1U 7PA, chilternfirehouse.com
Bentley’s
There are few, if any London restaurants better placed to deliver seafood. This Mayfair institution hardly needs an introduction, but for those who haven’t been, think of dressed crab and plates of oysters, whole roast Dover sole, and fried prawns in the lightest of batters. Outside, on the terrace, whatever the weather, it is often busy and fun. Martinis and champagne are par for the course. And so Bentley’s is a glorious place to while away hours. Top service, too.
11-15 Swallow Street, W1B 4DG, bentleys.org
OMA
David Carter, of Smokestak and Manteca success, launched his two Greek concepts earlier this year; the casual walk-in joint Agora and the slightly more grown-up OMA upstairs in Borough Market to great acclaim. OMA is a delicious spot, with lamb belly, squid ink giouvetsi and a range of flame-licked skewers for a gently horizon-expanding Greek experience. There’s also a little talked-about terrace, a sort of outside space under the Borough Market roof but outside the restaurant. With the twinkling market lights turned on, cold evenings out are rarely this enjoyable.
3 Bedale Street, SE1 9AL, oma.london
Scott’s
Scott’s was founded as an oyster warehouse in 1851 by a young fishmonger called John Scott. In Haymarket for more than 100 years, today the restaurant is one of Mayfair’s grandest locations, once a favourite stomping ground of Ian Fleming and today still boasting a virulent celebrity clientele. On a fine day, the terrace is decorous and joyful, but should things turn drizzly, it’s covered enough to suit itself comfortably to long and bougie lunches.
20 Mount Street, W1K 2HE, scotts-mayfair.com
Acme Fire Cult
In Dalston is Acme Fire Cult. It is cult by name and cult by nature: there’s always a crowd there eager for craft beers, low-intervention wines and small plates of flavour-packed dishes from chef Andrew Clarke and co. The food is hyper-modern, Hackney primed and cooked over fire. Think coal-roasted leeks with pistachio romesco, Longhorn bavette in spiced butter, and crab served as xec xec, a fragrant and fiery Goan curry. The place is one of east London’s finest successes of recent years.
Abbot Street, E8 3DP, acmefirecult.com
Dovetale
A gift from the man behind two Michelin-starred Restaurant Story, Tom Sellers, this might not be the most affordable terrace to dine at in town, but it’s certainly one of the nicest. Part of the 1 Hotel, just off Piccadilly, the comfy, sheltered, uber-chic space is just the spot to sequester yourself away, near a fireplace, with oysters, succulent roast chicken and plenty of fizz. Plus, there’s a build-your-own knickerbocker glory trolley. Need we say more?
1 Dover Yard, W1J 8NE, 1hotels.com
Llama Inn
Having just turned one in Shoreditch, Llama Inn is a Brooklyn import, a rooftop space with a covered terrace serving Peruvian-inspired small plates and excellently made cocktails. Upstairs with views across East London, Llama Inn has proven to be a hit with locals, critics, and just about everyone else: a restaurant that’s playful but refined and absolutely geared up for a good time. Begin with scallop ceviche and crispy squid. Then try the cod with yuca cream, and a pork chop of greedy proportion, tempered by a mint and cucumber salad and strapped with green sauce. Open late on the weekends, too.
1 Willow Street, EC2A 4BH, llamainnlondon.com
Bacchanalia
Some might consider Bacchanalia to be a garish restaurant. Those people are boring. It is a lot — waiting staff are dressed as Roman servants; on the ceiling is a model of a horse, hooves a-canter; somewhere there is a Damien Hirst piece worth millions — but what do you expect from restaurateur Richard Caring? What do you think Mayfair is all about? Outside, the restaurant’s newer terrace area continues the Italian and Greek-inspired dishes such as grilled octopus with fava beans, lobster paccheri pasta and wood-fired lamb chops.
1-3 Mount Street, W1K 3NB, bacchanalia.co.uk
Smokestak
There was a hefty barbecue trend some years ago. Has it faded away? Barbecue cooking has never and will never go out of fashion, even if it doesn’t dictate as many column inches these days. Here it is, though: Smokestak. A restaurant based entirely on the concept of smoked and roasted meats and with a terrace in a buzzy part of town. Crispy ox cheeks, pulled pork buns and mounds of tender brisket are vital outside in the sunshine.
35 Sclater Street, E1 6LB, smokestak.co.uk
Rochelle Canteen
Margot Henderson’s modern institution has long traded outside but hasn’t always had a cover on the terrace. It was a logistical burden given Britain’s penchant for sporadic rain. Today, there is less risk, and so the chef’s classic and modern European cooking can be enjoyed al fresco at any time. The menu is seasonal and changes daily — only the best produce can be predicted — but bed in for cured trout, perhaps, grilled asparagus or quail with lemon and aioli, and wine, a bottle or two.
16 Playground Gardens, E2 7FA, rochellecanteen.com
Angler
A rooftop terrace at a Michelin-starred restaurant isn’t easy to come by. Angler in Moorgate has one. There, a pared-back, lighter menu is served, with snacks flitting between flatbreads and nuts, and starters such as crispy fried prawns, mackerel tartare and asparagus with hollandaise. Later, pastas featuring morels, or Cornish sea bass or barbecued bavette. It is a charming space served well by proficient cooking; a little urban gem decked out with flowers, stripes and comfy wicker.
