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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Nicky Gardner

Rail route of the month: rewilding, polders and Hanseatic beauty by train in the Netherlands

The Hanzelijn railway line runs west from Zwolle through the Flevoland.
The Hanzelijn railway line runs west from Zwolle through the Flevoland. Photograph: Sjoerd van der Wal/Getty Images

There are train journeys where one just gazes at hills rolling by beyond the carriage window. I love such routes, be they in the Alps, Iberia or the Balkans. Things are different in the Netherlands, where pancake-flat landscapes dominate. Yet even in the flatlands there is often visual drama. The rail routes skirting Dutch heathlands around Apeldoorn are wonderful. And there is a subtle beauty, especially at low sun angles, to the secondary railways which follow the River IJssel downstream from Zutphen to Zwolle.

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