Considering that the word tozzetto means an irregular and rounded piece, and is the diminutive of tozzo, which refers to something with excessive thickness and width in relation to its height, my tozzetti are not faithful. In fact, the proportions I gave them mean they are more Janet McTeer than Danny DeVito. Fortunately, their length doesn’t compromise their texture and Terry’s Chocolate Orange flavour, or their status as biscotti da credenza (cupboard biscuits).
Today’s recipe is adapted from one by the Neapolitan food writer Simona Mirto, who, since 2011, has built an exceptional website of recipes called TavolArteGusto. Her pie, savoury tart, cake and biscuit recipes and notes are particularly effective. It is from Simona that I learned tozzetti are found in central Italy, particularly in Lazio, with its epicentre in the Tuscia Viterbo area, as well as in Umbria and Abruzzo; and that they originated between the 18th and 19th centuries as cupboard biscuits, designed to use simple, easily available ingredients: flour, eggs, sugar (or honey, which gives a chewier texture) and dried fruit. I have adjusted her tozzetti quantities slightly, to take into account the addition of orange juice as well as the orange zest she suggests. The dough, while slightly sticky, should be firm enough to shape into loaves (the form is rather like small ciabatta), so you may need to add a little more flour (cautiously) or simply work with flour-dusted hands on a well-floured work surface.
