The Amritsar Nobody Photographs
The tourist version of Amritsar ends at the Golden Temple langar and a plate of kulcha from a restaurant on Lawrence Road. The real food trail starts at Katra Jaimal Singh bazaar at 7 in the morning, where a man named Pappu has been ladling paye ki nihari, slow-cooked trotters in a bone broth that has been on the fire since midnight, from a blackened dekchi that looks older than the street itself. No sign. No Instagram grid. The queue is made up of mechanics, shopkeepers, and one retired schoolteacher who comes every Tuesday. This is the street food Amritsar eats before it opens for business.
