Get all your news in one place.
100’s of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
Salon
Salon
Lifestyle
Ashlie D. Stevens

Prue Leith wants you to cheat

For anyone resolving to cook more in the New Year, Prue Leith has a message: take a breath, roll up your sleeves and don’t let perfectionism keep you from the stove. In her latest cookbook, “Life’s Too Short to Stuff a Mushroom: Really good food without the fuss,” out now from Carnival, the legendary chef and “Great British Bake Off” judge argues that good food is within reach for every cook — even those with little patience, know-how or time. 

“It’s taken me a long life to know for sure that life is for living, and that hard graft has to be worth it,” Leith writes in the introduction to the book. “So, if you are whacked, short of time or just don’t like cooking, cheating is fine. I cheat all the time, and I LOVE cooking.”

The title alone nods to the playful pragmatism that guides the book, a riff on a well-worn adage coined by “Superwoman” author Shirley Conran in the 1970s. “I think everyone is busier today than before, scrambling from job, to childcare, to housework,” Leith told Salon, diagnosing the plight of the modern home cook. 

“Many young people didn’t learn to cook at school,” she continued. “Mum didn’t teach them because she was out at work and Dad ditto, if he ever could cook!” 

While many American home cooks were likely introduced to Leith through “Bake Off,” where she spends week after week judging pastries and cakes that are technical behemoths, the no-nonsense approach of “Life’s Too Short” feels particularly well-suited to an era of ambitious resolutions that fizzle by February. In place of complicated recipes requiring a full afternoon of mise en place, she offers shortcuts designed to reduce anxiety and, crucially, the risk of giving up altogether. 

“They are daunted by instructions: ‘Chop an onion’ or ‘Peel the ginger,’” Leith said. “I’m not a snobby chef who thinks boxed custard or frozen mash is a crime. I bet there is not a chef in the country who doesn’t have a jar of Hellman's mayo in their home fridge!” 

Her book brims with intuitive recipes built on big flavors, including several that would impress if included in a holiday spread, like the brown sugar meringue with roasted pear and salted caramel sauce, or the baked camembert and olive wheels. Weeknight fare abounds, too, with options like spaghetti with a tomato, chili and fennel sauce, as well as herbed salmon parcels. There are also clever tips, like how to safely extract an avocado pit without a trip to the emergency room (“avocado hand” is a well-documented injury in both British and American hospitals) and how to make a “star loaf” of bread. “You end up with a fancy tear-and-share bread worthy of Paul Hollywood,” she said. “Actually it’s his idea that I stole.” 

Embracing simplicity in this way reflects Leith’s own evolution in the kitchen. 

“When I look at some of my earlier recipes, I cannot believe how unnecessarily complicated they were,” she said. “To make trifle, I’d have told you how to make the custard, how to make the sponge cake, probably even how to make the jam.” 

She continued: “But now I make trifle with any leftover cake or croissants or raisin bread, any spread from chocolate to jam to lemon curd or marmalade, lots of any booze — I tend to use up those half-bottles strange liqueurs one accumulates in the back of the drinks cupboard — custard from a box — not a tin, that’s disgusting! — and whipped cream.” 

That evolution has been informed by a career spanning Michelin-starred restaurants, bestselling cookbooks and years on television. Yet Leith still relishes the art of borrowing. “I think all cookery writers steal ideas all the time, and I’m no exception. I take ideas from restaurants, books, friends, anywhere,” she said 

For instance, her tenure as a judge on “The Great British Menu” gave her an up-close look at the techniques of the United Kingdom’s best chefs; and while “Bake Off” has deepened her understanding of baking, she remains grounded in her priorities. 

“I think of myself as a cook more than a baker,” Leith said. “I like baking, but I never do the elaborate things you see on the show. I haven’t the time, nor, frankly, the inclination.”

It’s worth noting, too, that Leith’s philosophy regarding accessible cooking extends beyond the home kitchen. As an advocate for better food in schools and hospitals, she sees her love of “cheats” as a tool to help institutions create better meals without overburdening their staff. 

“There are some great charities publishing books to help,” she said, citing “Feed Your Family: Exciting recipes from Chefs in Schools” and “The Healthcare Chefs’ Knowledge,” which was developed following Leith’s work on a 2020 report about hospital food. “Both authors are aware that time is limited, it’s hard to get highly trained staff, and recipes must be straightforward and simple.”

In “Life’s Too Short to Stuff a Mushroom,” Leith makes a compelling case for ditching culinary guilt and embracing imperfection—a perspective as refreshing as it is liberating. The New Year often arrives laden with high expectations, but for Leith, the key to lasting success in the kitchen lies in cutting yourself some slack. “When I talk of cheating or short cuts, I’m not recommending junk food or ready meals,” she said. “Just simpler ways of doing things and recipes that are quick or easy to follow.” 

Whether you’re resolving to cook more or simply hoping to reduce mealtime stress, Leith’s book offers a way forward that feels achievable and— most importantly — human.

Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100’s of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
One subscription that gives you access to news from hundreds of sites
Already a member? Sign in here
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.