It's basically an oversized granite rock, about 150 kilometres long and 50 kilometres wide, but to winemakers it's 24-carat gold.
Because sitting on that rock, which is about two hours north-west of Canberra, is Hilltops, one of the most exciting wine regions anywhere in Australia.
Canny winemakers are queuing up to get their hands on Hilltops fruit, yet strangely enough, the region is still largely unknown to most wine drinkers.
Why is that? Winemaker Brian Freeman, who has 200 hectares of vines that makes him easily the largest Hilltops producer, puts it down to a shortage of cellar doors.
"Not enough cellar doors means we don't attract people, and because we don't attract people no-one is putting up new cellar doors," he said.
It's wine's own Catch-22.
But as a premium grape growing region, it has 'got the lot'. There's hardly a variety that won't grow there - not just grow but thrive - producing fruit of the highest quality.
At the last Canberra wine show for example, Hilltops wines collected eight trophies plus 15 gold medals.
Freeman says the secret to Hilltops' success is a combination of soil and climate.
"The soils are deep and well drained," he said.
"There's also a layer of decomposed granite about 12 to 15 metres deep that has been formed over the last five million years which indirectly helps regulate the water supply for the vines.
"And we get ideal weather conditions - cool nights in summer and a very dry autumn ... which is ideal for grapes to ripen."
Freeman's 200 hectares, for example, has no less than 27 varieties growing.
"Hilltops has traditionally been known for shiraz and cabernet, but now the Italian varieties like sangiovese, nebbiolo, rondinella and fiano are really impressing," he said.
Canberra winemakers use a lot of Hilltops fruit, but the Hunter Valley is in on the act too.
One of the first Hunter wineries to catch on about the potential of Hilltops was Hungerford Hill.
"We've probably been using fruit from there or the best part of 35 years," winemaker Bryan Currie said.
"There's not a grape variety I can think of that you can't grow in Hilltops. It's quite amazing.
"It's warm enough that your grapes will ripen fully, but cool enough to allow really nice aromatics. The dry autumn means the grapes can have that long hang time ... you can pick pretty much from February to June.
"And it allows us to produce wines that we just can't do in the Hunter.
"Off the top of my head we take pinot grigio, fiano, tempranillo, graciano, malbec, cabernet and sangiovese. We also do a Hilltops shiraz which is very different to Hunter shiraz - more aromatic and spicy."
There's a host of other Hunter wineries in on the act too.
Allandale, Boydells, Glandore, Gundog, Wild Ren and The Little Wine Co all make Hilltops wines - and it's only a matter of time until more follow.
Take a note of the Hilltops name ... you'll be seeing a lot more of it.
WINE REVIEWS
Aromatic appeal
Gundog Hilltops Shiraz No.1, 2022
$35
Winemaker Matt Burton sources the fruit for this entirely from the Freeman vineyard. He also does shiraz from the Hunter Valley and Canberra. This has an aromatic bouquet of dark berries, is medium weight but light on its feet, with mixed red and black berry flavours, a savoury edge and an appealing, spicy finish.
Wait well worth it
Stockman's Ridge Outlaw Chardonnay, 2017
$40
This isn't something you see every day ... a white wine that gets a good, long stint in the cellar before release. The crew at Orange winery Stockman's Ridge have been well rewarded for their patience. The age is obvious with toasty notes, but there's still peach, melon, quince and citrus to go on with. Good drinking.
Interesting adventure
Sapling Yard Fiori, 2023
$30
Fiori is the Italian word for 'flowers' - no doubt referring to the floral notes on the nose. This is a new addition to Canberra winery Sapling Yard's range - an adventurous blend of riesling (60 per cent), pinot gris (30 per cent), and 5 per cent each of muscat and pinot blanc. Melons and orchard fruits with a lemony, citrus note to the finish. Unusual and interesting.
