The Milky Way does not disappear in India. It gets buried under city light, and then, in October, when the last of the monsoon cloud burns off and the humidity drops, it surfaces again. The window between mid-October and late November is narrow, dark, and largely uncrowded, the tourist season has not yet peaked, the air is clean, and the galactic core still hangs above the southwestern horizon in the early evening before it sets. You do not need a permit to stand under it. You need elevation, distance from a town, and a new moon night.
