Businesses at Wapping Wharf have had a tough time these past few months. The closure of Gaol Ferry Bridge in August has meant restaurants, shops and bars are experiencing less footfall - restauranteur Larkin Cen cited this as part of the reason he closed up two of his Woky Ko sites in the Cargo development.
The future of Wild Beer's taproom also remains uncertain - with the brewery announcing it has had to appoint administrators this week. Things may be starting to look up for the area this Christmas, however, with four new businesses moving into Cargo 1 and 2 in less than two weeks.
One of the newcomers is wine and food bar, Picole, a new venture by Tare which is located on the other side of the shipping container development. The bar has takeover over Woky Ko Rooftop tucked away in the corner of Cargo 2 by Seven Lucky Gods. I booked a table for opening night on December 7.
Read more: Tare announces date new Wapping Wharf wine and food bar will open
Like Tare, the new bar is small and compact with just a handful of tables and space for around eight people on the counter. We were propped up at the bar overlooking the open kitchen, with just enough space for Tare founder Matt Hampshire to find a good rhythm alongside two other chefs.
The food menu is small but showcases some of the best produce in the south west. Ravenous, we nibbled on chunks of sourdough (£4) before receiving four neat potato rosti with a powerful garlic aioli. Then there were the three neat arancini for £5, an Italian snack that packed a powerful punch of cauliflower, which was a triumph from a vegetable that can be bland and unexciting if in unskilled hands.
I never usually opt for cheese at dessert, but as a lover of local cheese, I was most excited about the West Country cheeseboard at £12, which was part of the main menu. The four kinds of cheese included a creamy Golden Cross goats cheese and a strong Westcombe Cheddar, which paired well with an earthy beetroot chutney.
We also ordered the spouting broccoli flavoured with black garlic (£7) followed by a generous bowl of plump mussels sat in a leek and cider sauce (£9).
Bristol's obsession with small plates doesn't seem to be calming any time soon, but there's no denying it works for Picole's ethos that prioritises natural wines. Diners can graze on as little or as much as they like and sip on wines from different corners of Europe (aside from one rose from Somerset).
I tried a glass of the Piedmontese red, which was deliciously light and smooth, marrying particularly well with the local cheeses. Eager to learn from some of the staff's expertise, bar manager Davey Alford, seemed to be at the helm of the wine menu. He suggested a southern Spanish and Hungarian dessert wine accompany our sweets.
I asked another diner - who I clocked had ordered the two desserts on the menu (at £.750 each) - which one was best and said they were a chef and had helped to prepare the chocolate mousse that day. They added that they adored the orange tart, so it only felt fair to order both. The tart arrived first, with a bruléed top that collapsed after a satisfying crack with my spoon to expose the creamy, citrusy filling - a welcomed, light refresher.
The mousse, by contrast, was as rich as you'd expect and so thick it was verging on ganache. A pool of olive oil sat on the top, a bold addition that I wasn't expecting, but it was so carefully considered, and helped to balance the richness of the chocolate along with a sprinkle of smoked salt.
The food bill came to £57 for essentially three courses worth of small plates; I think less than £30 per head is impressive considering the level of food plated up in front of you. The wines range from around £5 to £9 for more premium glasses, offering really high-level, usual wines for a great price.
Picole is unpretentious, fun and certainly something for the Bristol foodies to get excited about, offering a menu at half of the price of its sister restaurant, Tare, without any compromise on quality. If like me, you don't have extensive knowledge of wine but appreciate something different and delicious, the friendly staff will be so happy to assist. It's one of the most pleasurable meals I've had in Bristol this year, striking the balance between creating a relaxed yet lively atmosphere.
Find Picole at Unit 25, Museum St, Wapping Wharf, Bristol, BS1 6ZA
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