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Natascha Radclyffe-Thomas, Professor of Marketing and Sustainable Business at the British School of Fashion (GCU London), Glasgow Caledonian University

Phoebe Philo's fashion frenzy: why her much-anticipated collection sold out within hours

British luxury fashion designer Phoebe Philo OBE, debuted her long-anticipated eponymous label to critical acclaim at the end of October. Despite the eye-watering price tags, the small range of clothing, accessories, jewellery and footwear – only available on the Phoebe Philo website – virtually sold out within hours.

But Philo is no stranger to fashion frenzies. Her 2005 Paddington bag, created during her tenure as creative director at French designer Chloé, became an instant and enduring “It bag” that sold out before it even hit the shelves.

Having stepped out of the fashion limelight in 2017, Philo has spent the past two years building anticipation for her return, initially teasing her hordes of loyal fashion fans – known as “Philophiles” – by announcing as long ago as 2021 that she was working on her own brand launch.

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