I didn’t imagine I would be welling up watching a pair of hyena cubs relaxing by a den, tiny paws twitching, within an hour of arriving at Phinda Forest Lodge, but then nothing about our safari with andBeyond was within the realm of the expected. When our guide had asked us what we would like to see (baby animals and hyenas, which I adore), I assumed they meant that week, not that afternoon.
Any fears my first South Africa safari experience had peaked too soon were quickly assuaged, with each twice-daily game drive bringing more moving encounters with animals.
There was a truly wild afternoon where we found ourselves with four lionesses sleeping off a kill on one side of the car, while a mother rhino faced off against a frisky bull getting too close to her calf on the other.
When one of the lionesses stalked over to come and slouch in the shade by my end of the jeep, blinking her amber eyes at me, the part of me that spent her childhood mainlining Big Cat Diaries wanted to punch the air. Only I had to stay stock still so as not to spook this gorgeous apex predator.
I appreciate that hearing about someone else’s transcendental experiences in the beauty of nature is about as scintillating as sitting through someone’s hour-long slideshow of holiday photos. But one of the many great parts of andBeyond’s ethos is their curiosity-led approach to tracking and guiding that provides a choose-your-own-adventure element to each game drive.
You’re not simply being shuttled around the sights and lectured with animal facts – you can pepper them with as many questions as you like (as a car-full of journalists, there were many) or simply sit and bask in the beauty of each encounter. Although, we all agreed that another car video-calling their friends in front of two suitably majestic male lions having a sunset nap was perhaps a bit too far.
Your guide and tracker will ask you before each drive if there’s anything you particularly want to see, but if you put your faith in them and their incredible skills you’ll come across moments you’ve never dreamed of. I don’t want to blow up their spot, but our guide Thulani and tracker Sipho were the best in the game.
Thanks to them, we spent a thrilling morning alongside a trio of male cheetahs on the prowl, and ended up in in pole position when a lioness was reunited with the cubs she had been searching for. These were narratives worthy of any David Attenborough-fronted nature show, but happening right in front of our noses.
All this fresh air and excitement is hungry work, and you’ll be so well fed you’ll begin to feel a little sorry for all the animals who have to spend their lives grazing and hunting for sustenance. AndBeyond promises to feed you seven – yes, seven – times a day.
There’s coffee and sweet treats before your first game drive, a necessity if, like me, you are not a morning person and trying to handle a pre-5am wakeup call with dignity. A tiffin tin full of snacks to go with your Ranger Special, aka mocha-choca-rula, aka a mocha spiked with Amarula, before you head back to camp. A full breakfast menu plus a pancake bar for the second breakfast, or is that third? Then on to a delicious lunch, and then a high tea before your second game drive.
Sundowners with another selection of nibbles out in the field, maybe with a view of a family of curious hippos if you’re lucky. Once the sun has set, the fire is lit in the boma, where you can recap the day’s highlights under the stars. Dinner is a three-course affair, naturally, and the South African wine is, of course, perfection. The Forest Lodge even has a special wine cellar to tempt the real aficionados.
While it’s a lot of food and drink to pack in, everything is fresh and zinging with flavour. I’m still thinking about the fish tacos I had one lunch time. Our butler Misoh was a laugh and, around day two, he could always guess exactly what my order would be. By the time I was accompanied back to my personal lodge each night the well-stocked bar and snacks in every corner of the room were gently mocking me. I’d collapse into bed utterly sated, with the curtains open to the trees, keeping only the screen door closed so I could be sure to hear the nocturnal hyenas whooping as they scuffled through the dark forest.
The private lodges are so gorgeously appointed it seems a shame to be always rushing out of them for meals and drives. Raised above the sandy earth and screened by foliage, you’re in a private oasis. When you’re away from home it’s the little details that matter, such as clever dressing area with open wardrobes and a mirror with a shelf stand.
Forest Lodge has been recently refurbished in keeping with its ‘Zulu Zen’ style, a modish hybrid between local design and Japanese elements (think Japandi but far less bland). Locally made brushes have been turned into sculptural lampshades, and intricate monochromatic beadwork adorns unexpected surfaces.
During daylight hours you are free to roam around the site, taking in the lodge’s setting in Africa’s last remaining dry sand forest, where foliage grows in ancient dunes that used to ring the shoreline of the sea, millions of years ago. It’s a surreal experience to pad across white sand under a canopy of sub-tropical trees as nyala – adorable antelope with fascinating sexual diamorphism – trot around seemingly unbothered.
Raised boardwalks connect the guest facilities, which were expanded in the revamp. There’s an airy library across from the main dining area filled with artwork and ephemera, through which you can reach the peaceful pool area complete with an infinity pool looking out over a grassy plain. The route continues through the forest to a spa complex and a gym. I won’t pretend I am the kind of person to get in a HIIT session while on holiday, but the gorgeously air conditioned work out space with floor-to-ceiling glazing is the perfect spot for a little light yoga.
With so much wild magic, good food and luxurious digs available, the experience was already smashing any star rating out of the park. But the team at Phinda and andBeyond have an array of gorgeous tricks up their well-pressed khaki sleeves to delight guests.
Without giving too many spoilers, a drive down a random-seeming track could lead to a breakfast feast of mimosas and jaffles (South Africa’s take on a cheese toastie, but circular) cooked on an open fire, or you may return to your room to find a bubble bath run, candles lit, and a bottle of sparkling South African wine chilling in an ice bucket. It’s like being on holiday with a wildly romantic partner without the hassle of sharing your vast comfy bed. Unfortunately I have now been spoiled for travel for life – a chocolate on my pillow or a towel-swan simply won’t cut it any more.
Eventually, after being fed constantly, waited on, and driven around everywhere, you may begin to feel you are sinking into too much hedonistic luxury of the kind that risks a gout diagnosis. For me, this came around the time I was having piña coladas delivered to my swing chair by the pool between naps. Luckily, there are some more active pursuits available to guests who wish to propel themselves under their own speed.
A walking safari safely within the confines of the elephant fence allows you to take in the unique beauty of the sand forest at a more pedestrian pace. There is wonder to be found everywhere, from vast ancient trees to tiny orchid flowers. Phinda Forest Lodge is also the proud new owner of some very snazzy electric bikes, which you can take out for an Ebike adventure with resident cycling enthusiast Siya.
Don’t let the tech boost fool you, it’s hard work biking the trails as you dodge the holes in the ground left by aardvarks. You’ll be sweaty and dusty, but it’s entirely worth it though to whizz at high speeds along the sand tracks pretending you’re a Mad Max extra. Bring extra water and a light scarf to double as a dust mask/brow mopper.
The bikes are leased from the nearby Makhasa community, with the proceeds from the rentals going back to them. This is indicative of andBeyond’s approach to working with their wider neighbours to try to both give back with tourism and tread as lightly as possible on the land. There are also special packages where you can go out with wildlife experts to change radio collars on the big cats or check in on their most famous yet illusive residents: the pangolins. But these experiences aren’t simply pay-to-play, you have to register your interest in advance and you’ll only be taken out when there is a purpose to the interaction.
The lodge obviously cares about its staff too, and most of the employees we chatted to had been working for the company for years. Our tracker Sipho, for example, had worked his way up from barman through their exhaustive tracker training, which had honed his preternatural ability to spot tiny baby chameleons chilling in the bushes at night. Thankfully there is much wider awareness in the tourism industry these days about patronising businesses committed to sustainable practice, and andBeyond clearly sees running an eco-lodge as an exercise in a holistic approach to both people and nature.
As a first-time safari goer I don’t feel in much of a position to share insider tips, but my two recommendations would be: take your chances with monkies stealing your pants and use the free in-house laundry; and don’t worry about dressing for dinner. Oh, and if you are looking to break the considerable journey between Johannesburg and Phinda, spend a night at the Oyster Box Hotel in Durban. Fans include the Kardashians, and the palm court features chandeliers that were shipped over from London after the Savoy auctioned off the silver for its last refit. It’s full of coastal charm with incredible views over the Indian Ocean and a curry buffet that will rock your world. andBeyond Phinda Forest Lodge is from £727 per person per night. This includes full board accommodation, laundry service, twice-daily game drives, nature walks, transfers to and from the lodge airstrip. More information at andbeyond.com.
