Inside a municipal cafe built into Istanbul’s ancient city walls, waiters scurried back and forth carrying cups of strong Turkish tea and hefty slices of chocolate cake.
On one side of the modern wooden building, the view opened towards the Bosphorus, on the other was a courtyard formed from the towering limestone and brick ramparts once built to defend the entire city from invaders, now welcoming people for a hot drink, and a view of a playground.