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Marie Claire
Marie Claire
Lifestyle
Ariel Baker

Patchouli Fragrances Are the Key to Any Long-Lasting Perfume Layering Combination

A blonde woman wearing oversized sunglasses, a brown coat, and brown jewelry. She is in front of a background of patchouli leaves and is next to three perfume bottles from Le Labo, Dolce and Gabbana, and Krigler.

While I consider myself a true lover of fragrance, there are a few notes that really intimidate me. Patchouli is one of them. Not only does it get a bad rep (I’ve seen some folks liken the note to body odor), but it also feels like it falls a little more on the masculine side of the fragrance spectrum. It’s a note that has felt like a complete toss-up in the past and for good reason. ​

“Patchouli originates from the mint family,” Andrea Maack, perfumer and founder of the eponymous fragrance line, tells me. “It’s usually used as a 'fixative' in perfume, which means it holds the notes together.” Fixatives slow the evaporation of more powerful notes (like citrus or light florals), helping a fragrance last longer.​

All of this being said, if there’s anything that I’ve learned about the world of perfumery, it’s that you should never write off a note in its entirety. I’ve been doing the heavy lifting for you and have been sniffing, spritzing, and wearing as many patchouli fragrances as I can get my hands on. The list below is the result of my research, and if I can toot my own horn for a second, I’ve found some of the most crowd-pleasing patchouli perfumes on the market.

Whether you’re a true lover of the note, are indecisive, or have completely written it off, keep reading for the patchouli perfumes that could convince even the harshest skeptic to give the ingredient a try.

The Best Patchouli Fragrances

Ariel Baker testing Violette 30 from Le Labo. (Image credit: Ariel Baker)
Ariel Baker testing Krigler's Lovely Patchouli 55. (Image credit: Ariel Baker)
Ariel Baker testing Radical Rose Extrait from Matiere Premiere. (Image credit: Ariel Baker)
Ariel Baker testing Dolce&Gabbana Velvet Zafferano fragrance. (Image credit: Ariel Baker)
Ariel Baker testing Dries Van Noten Rock the Myrrh Eau de Parfum fragrance. (Image credit: Ariel Baker testing Dries Van Noten Rock the Myrrh Eau de Parfum fragrance.)

What Does Patchouli Smell Like?

Remember when I said patchouli can be a little polarizing? For some people, the very first time they may have smelled the note, it may have come off a little sour. “Some individuals wear patchouli oil as a fragrance on its own,” Raymond Matts, perfumer and founder of RM61 Designs Inc., tells me. “Patchouli has an association with hippies in the 70’s. Many people would bring home the oil from their travels (alongside incense) as a reminder of their spiritual awakenings. Patchouli was also known to mask the odor of marijuana.” Hippie culture also saw the intentional rise of communal living, so patchouli was used to mask body odor that came with this lifestyle.

As you’ve likely gleaned from its background, patchouli can be strong. But that’s exactly why so many people like and use it. “The odor of patchouli smells very much like dry leaves,” Matts says. “It is dry with a dank-like odor similar to a wet basement or musty attic. Some refer to it as earthy, and associate the scent with dried leaves on a forest floor.”

What to Look for in a Patchouli Fragrance?

Both Maack and Matts agree that Patchouli is a rather strong note. The key to making it work? Balance.

“Rose is always a good note to pair with patchouli,” Maack says. “It’s a classic in more cool, gothic compositions, like our eau de parfum, Magma.” Matts agrees, stating that the combination is a classic in Europe. “Patchouli, when combined with oakmoss, defines the classic Chypre family of fragrances,” he says. “This background is combined with bergamot, rose, labdanum, and geranium. It creates a sophisticated, elegant fragrance composition.”

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