A pod of majestic blue whales chases alongside our yacht. One by one, they break the ocean’s surface to spray clouds of air from their blowholes and wave their splendid tails in an overpowering display of beauty.
It’s prime whale watching season in Los Cabos, which is situated on the southern end of the Baja California peninsula, and I’m onboard a luxurious yacht in the Sea of Cortez with a mimosa in hand. Here, humpback whales migrate to mate and give birth in Mexico’s warm waters each winter from December to March.
The magic of this time of year permeates my dreamy week at Chileno Bay Resort, from the welcome token of a wooden whale carved by Sonoran Desert artisans to the pair of binoculars left in my ocean-view room. Wrapped around a swimmable hidden cove, the boutique luxury hotel is a visual spectacle that begs to be photographed at every viewpoint. Sandstone brick and white stucco rooms and restaurants gather around two infinity pools that overlook the Pacific Ocean.
There’s a gorgeous wellness precinct with treatment rooms, a complimentary bathhouse, and meditation zones swathed in creeping fig. And the pathways are lush with agave plants, cactus and violet bougainvillea blooms that attract monarch butterflies and hummingbirds – both of which symbolise the return of departed souls to ancestors in Mexican culture.
But Los Cabos wasn’t always a five-star tourist destination. As little as half a century ago, the remote municipality was a sleepy fishing village, accessible only by boat or private plane, before the Hollywood film industry exploded across the border. Wealthy stars and fishing enthusiasts arrived by seaplanes to seek refuge in the sun-drenched hidden gem and, as tourist demand picked up, so did the city’s development on the glittering coastline.
In the lively marina at party capital Cabo San Lucas, celebrity-owned cruisers now jostle for space with glass-bottom boats and water taxis ferrying tourists to one of Baja’s signature sights: El Arco. Carved over millions of years by powerful waves, the prehistoric limestone arch rises 60 metres out of the water, where sea lions play and doze in the sunshine. From close up, the time-worn landmark radiates a mystical energy that stays with you long after you’re back on dry land – where you can enjoy a tequila tasting or watch glassblowers at work in one of the several family-owned factories.
Further east along the scenic Tourist Corridor is charming San José del Cabo. Founded as a Spanish Jesuit mission in 1730, the Mexican-style town is centred around a twin-spired church and bears the marks of its colonial past. Cobblestone streets are strung with colourful bunting and lined with Spanish-style art galleries, artisanal stores and alfresco Fondas (restaurants) celebrating coastal Baja cuisine.
Mexico enjoys a vast variety of fresh produce sourced from its unique desert landscape, verdant farms and the populous Sea of Cortez. Whether it’s from a street taquería or a fine dining restaurant, almost every dish is laced with locally grown citrus, from tempura Baja fish tacos with bright orange salsa to a sea scallop drizzled in zesty lime juice at the cliff-side venue Cocina del Mar. And it makes perfect sense, as the natural acidity of citrus fruits like lime and grapefruit complements the rich agave taste of tequila, the beloved spirit of Mexico.
So, I pair a margarita on the rocks with every delicious meal – if only to toast the frequent, joyful sighting of whales on the horizon.
How to get to Los Cabos
You can fly into Los Cabos International Airport from major US cities; a one-way fare from LAX with United Airlines starts around $170. One-way flights from Sydney to LAX with United Airlines start around $1270. Most hotels are a 30-minute drive from the airport.
Where to eat in Los Cabos
Cocina Del Mar, Esperanza. Ideal for a romantic, lantern-lit dinner.
Yaya, Chileno Bay. Enjoy a laid-back poolside lunch.
Acre, San José del Cabo. Set on 25 lush acres in the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna mountains.
La Lupita, San José del Cabo. Head to the back courtyard for cocktails and a live band.
Where to visit in Los Cabos
El Arco, Cabo San Lucas. Board a water taxi or sailing tour for this rock formation.
Santa Maria Beach, Cabo San Lucas. Free of rips, this rare swimmable beach is ideal for snorkelling.
The Well, Chileno Bay. Book a massage to unwind. For more, explore visitloscabos.
Where to shop in Los Cabos
Plaza Artesanos, San José del Cabo. These traditional artisan markets are open daily.
Vitrofusión Glass Factory, Cabo San Lucas. Watch glassblowers at work.
La Sacristia Art & History, San José del Cabo. Browse jewellery and ceramic wares.
Where to stay in Los Cabos
Chileno Bay Resort & Residences
Private guestrooms nestled by the beach
Best for: Boutique hotel luxury
Set within a protected cove, Chileno Bay is the ultimate holiday retreat with guestrooms, suites and villas to suit every style of getaway. The guestrooms make the most of the scenic location with private terraces offering ocean views, while the resort amenities are designed for relaxation. The Well features a bath house, reflexology pool and nap garden to soothe your stresses. Meanwhile, Comal, the resort’s restaurant, serves up traditional dishes alongside breathtaking views of the beach.
Key features:
- Beachside taco bar
- Spacious bathroom and outdoor shower
- Infinity plunge pool
- Babysitting services
- Flexible accommodation options
Casa del Mar
Entire luxury villa in Cabo San Lucas
Best for: Spacious living close to the beach
Spanning 4,500 square feet within the exclusive El Pedregal community, Casa del Mar offers all the creature comforts for an unforgettable stay in Cabo. The five-bedroom villa accommodates up to nine guests and features a private outdoor pool, idyllic mountain views and a dedicated workspace with fast internet, perfect for remote work. Plus, you’ll have access to shared resort and spa amenities, with the beach just a stone’s throw away.
Key features:
- Four deluxe bedroom suites
- Fully equipped kitchen
- Heated swimming pool
- Sonos sound system
Villa Luna by Desert Villas
Private villa in Cabo San Lucas
Best for: Breathtaking ocean views
Experience both privacy and luxury at Villa Luna, where breathtaking ocean vistas and ample living spaces welcome up to ten guests. The private patio features an outdoor kitchen, pool and hot tub. Inside, you’ll find three comfortable bedrooms, Wi-Fi access and gym equipment, catering to every need. For everything else, you can take advantage of resort access at the Desert Villas.
Key features:
- Shared beach access
- Private hot tub
- Free parking
- Arcade games
The Modern Condo
A private studio in Cabo San Lucas
Best for: Solo travellers and couples
Seeking a home away from home while abroad? This luxurious condo has you covered with a comfortable one-bedroom suite, a fully equipped kitchen, and an exclusive rooftop terrace and pool with stunning views of downtown Cabo. Enjoy the romantic sunset views for a memorable end to the day.
Key features:
- Free parking
- Air-conditioning
- 360-degree rooftop views
- Newly constructed building
Casa Tequila
Entire home in Cabo San Lucas
Best for: Large groups and families
With three bedrooms that comfortably accommodate up to eight guests, Casa Tequila offers a spacious and tranquil retreat. The stay features a private pool with ocean views, nestled within El Pedregal, an exclusive gated community set among the mountains. Best of all, the charming restaurants and nightlife of Cabo are just a short walk away.
Key features:
- Daily housekeeping
- Located near the marina
- Fast wi-fi
- Private beach access
Casita Costa Azul
Entire cabin in San José del Cabo
Best for: Surf enthusiasts
Costa Azul is one of the most picturesque beaches in Cabo San Lucas, drawing surfers from around the world to its stunning blue waves. So why not make the most of this idyllic location by staying in a rustic oceanfront cabin? With plenty of surfing spots nearby, the cabin offers a designated parking area, comfortable camastros for outdoor lounging and a cosy bed for unwinding after a day of adventure.
Key features:
- Air-conditioning
- Common areas to socialise
- Five minutes from downtown San Jose
Luxury Haven
Entire condo in Cabo San Lucas
Best for: Scenic views of the Arch
For breathtaking views of the Arch, the majestic rock formations off the Baja California peninsula, this condo is the ideal retreat. In addition to the ocean vistas, this two-bedroom condo features open living with a fully equipped kitchen, along with three swimming pools, a tennis court and an on-site gym. Plus, just a few minutes away is El Medano Beach in Cabo San Lucas.
Key features:
- Terrace with ocean views
- 2 bedrooms and 2.5 bathrooms
- Located near El Medano beach
Oceanfront Terrasol Condo
Entire condo in Cabo San Lucas
Best for: Romantic sunset views
Just steps from Solmar Beach, this private condo is perfect for a relaxing getaway. The two-bedroom abode is on the ground level, offering ‘door to sand’ access with a patio and outdoor fireplace to take in the panoramic ocean views. Enjoy a refreshing dip in one of the two resort pools on site, or visit the restaurant to savour a few cocktails.
Key features:
- Air-conditioning
- Fully-stocked kitchen
- Newly remodelled
- Walking distance to Cabo San Lucas
This article originally appeared on Home Beautiful and is republished here with permission.
