It was only when I sat down to taste 10 custards that I realised this was a dangerous test to judge on my own. I tried a range of ready-made offerings, from cans to cartons to tubs of fresh custard from the supermarket chiller section, some of which I found hard not to drink by the pint.
I analysed each custard for aroma, texture and taste, and awarded extra points for minimal processing and the use of free-range eggs; I deducted points for the inclusion of palm oil, modified maize starches and colourings, all of which are often used to replace the colour, fat and thickening ability of eggs. It was, however, the long-life cartons that most provoked nostalgic memories of bananas and custard as a child.
