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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
National
Joanna Moorhead

Outdoor saunas, freezing dips and remote hutting: how Scotland fell in love with Scandinavian winters

Both in sports bikinis, Rosie Barge is wearing Neoprene socks and gloves and walking on a stone path towards Loch Fyfe, and Hailey O’Hara is standing at the doorway of a wooden sauna
Hailey O’Hara and Rosie Barge head for Loch Fyfe from their family-run West Coast Wellness sauna at Otter Ferry, Scotland. Photograph: Murdo MacLeod/the Observer

The sun shimmers across the water outside the sauna – it looks inviting, though it’s clearly going to be freezing. But it’s only a quick dip, and then the bikini-clad bathers will be back in the enveloping warmth of the ­caramel-scented wooden cabin a few metres away on the shore, its giant picture windows giving exquisite views on to the distant hillsides.

This is Scandinavian winter living par excellence: but it’s not a Nor­wegian fjord or Swedish forest – it’s the banks of Loch Fyne on the west coast of Scotland. This is one of a growing number of Scandi-style ­outdoor saunas across the coastline where locals and visitors gather through the long, dark northern ­winter days in search of company and warmth, and to boost their physical and mental health.

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