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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Jay Rayner

Origin City, London: ‘A nose-to-tail ethos’ – restaurant review

London Sophia Evans Chris Corbin Jeremy King Richard Caring The Observer Smithfield Caprice FT Le Caprice
‘It all has a 90s power-lunch vibe’: Origin City in Smithfield, London.
‘It all has a 90s power-lunch vibe’: Origin City in Smithfield, London. Photograph: Sophia Evans/The Observer

Origin City, 12 West Smithfield, London EC1A 9JR (020 4568 6240). Starters £11-£15; mains £21-£42; desserts £8-£10. Wines from £24

Slapping the words “nose to tail” on your website is a gutsy flex for a new restaurant, when it’s located fewer than 250m from Fergus Henderson’s St John. They coined the term almost 30 years ago, and have been diligently working their way from arse to nostril and back again ever since. If that “whole animal” approach is what you’re after, why would you come to this new place when the mothership is just over there?

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