
If Prague’s cobblestones could talk, they would have stories to tell from a pivotal place in the history of the Cold War — not least as an entrepot of East-West espionage. Demonstrators, security forces and secret police thundered across Wenceslas Square in the heady tumult of 1989.
Notebook in hand, I watched a regime imposed by a foreign power and sustained by fear totter and fall. The dissidents were suddenly in control of their country’s destiny.