Lily Allen declared yesterday that after living in New York for a while, “I’ve spent long enough away to notice how far the standards have slipped in London’s restaurant scene”. Fair enough, that’s her view. Except, unfortunately, it’s a too-commonly held belief.
Such a proposition is curious at best, reductive and ridiculous at worst. New York has fabulous restaurants — I visited Carbone for the first time two months ago and now understand the hype — but so too does London.
Allen did single out two places — Afghan Kitchen and Barrafina — for praise, but that was it.
It’s heartening to see someone of such clout praise Afghan Kitchen, which is a wonderful place to eat. As for Barrafina, that’s been a surefire way to get well fed (at a price) for years now.
What’s puzzling is the apparent denunciation of so many others. If anything, London restaurants are as exciting, progressive, and as fun as ever. Our city has had a torrid time since the pandemic yet it still turns out some of the best restaurants in the world.
And just about any cuisine from any nation is available — a credit to London’s diversity and desire to remain open, despite the work of Nigel Farage and co (Allen wondered whether Brexit might be to blame). Places like Mangal II in Dalston, Sambal Shiok in Holloway, Bocco di Lupo in Soho and Bravi Regazzi in Streatham are each a guarantee that eating out in London can be euphoric if you take the time to look.
It was pointed out that Allen wasn’t being adventurous enough. I agree. Where is she going, exactly, that has fallen so catastrophically in quality?
I was wracking my brain to recall restaurants I visited soon before the first lockdown, and those I visited soon after the last. A culinary pandemic sandwich, if you like. The French House, Fish Wings & Tings, Quo Vadis, Apollo Banana Leaf, Flat Iron, and Singburi are among them. If anything, they’re all just as good, if not better than before.
There are also venues that have become tired — maybe the head chef moved on, perhaps margins were squeezed beyond all comprehension. It isn’t hard to find bad food in London.
But to suggest London’s restaurants have faltered in their entirety, bar two? I’m sorry, Lily, but you’re totally wrong.
Josh Barrie is a food and drink writer
