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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Ralph Jones

‘One of the most disgusting meals I’ve ever eaten’: AI recipes tested

Ralph Jones samples the ‘miraculous’ Sri Lankan ‘currywurst curry’.
Ralph Jones samples the ‘miraculous’ Sri Lankan ‘currywurst curry’. Photograph: Ralph Jones/The Guardian

Teresa J Blair has a handful of cookbooks to her name. Each has a snappy, catchy title: The Ultimate Crockpot Cookbook for Beginners: A Comprehensive Guide to Slow Cooking Success for Novice Chefs, Featuring Mouthwatering Recipes, Time-Saving Tips, and Essential Techniques is a great example. Teresa has written about canning and preserving, the Mediterranean diet and anti-inflammatory recipes. Well done, Teresa. But don’t expect this cookery writer to turn up to any book signings or appear on Saturday Kitchen. It’s not that Teresa is a diva; it’s that she’s not a real person. She’s an AI.

In the past couple of years, something disconcerting has been happening in the cookbook marketplace. Entire books are springing up, written by AI. In just over a week, between 2 and 14 December 2023, Teresa managed to publish four books – which means Nigel Slater will need to speed up his whisking significantly. She has a rival, as well: in January, the fictional Lillian D Stewart published five recipe books on pasta, gout food, lectin food, Mediterranean food and the dash diet. At first glance, Teresa’s books look plausible. Some people may be fooled by them. But can AI actually emulate human chefs?

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