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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Liz Boulter

On the trail of the other Saint Francis in Italy’s deep south

Sea view for flowery hills
A view south-west towards Paola from Toppa San Nicola, Calabria. Photograph: Angelina Marcelli

A new sculpture appeared in a square in the town of Paola, Calabria, in April last year. It’s not the usual man on a horse, or even anything with legs; it’s a many-times-lifesize trout in grey stone – all fins, bulgy eyes and pout.

The unusual monument was erected to commemorate a miracle performed by the town’s patron saint, Francis. (He was actually made a saint in 1519, but Covid delayed the celebrations for the 500th anniversary of his canonisation.) This Saint Francis followed in the spiritual – and, for a time, literal – footsteps of his better-known predecessor, Francis of Assisi, but dialled up his reverence for the natural world and became one of the first recorded vegans.

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