I was 14 when I first went skiing, a scrimped-and-saved-for school trip to Austria by coach and it remains vivid in my memory. Not just the joy of flying down snowy mountains, but all the trappings of a teenage escapade abroad: the dramas, holiday romances, and underage drinking …
Twenty years later, I find myself on the adult equivalent: a week’s ski holiday to Morzine in the French Alps with Hofnar, a company that caters for travellers under 40. About 80% of first-time guests go on a Hofnar trip on their own, sharing a chalet with (hopefully) like-minded people. It’s a brilliant idea. As I learned on my school trip, ski holidays are best in big groups, but not everyone has friends who fancy or can afford a ski trip.
Morzine is a pretty place that still feels like a proper Alpine town, with traditional architecture and restaurants serving Savoyarde specialities. Our base, the open-plan Chalet Skade, was built for socialising – and perfect for our group of seven solo travellers, two friends and one couple (all Brits, bar Canadian Jenny). Everyone is here to party as well as ski. This is not for those who like their privacy: all rooms are shared (I’m in a triple).
Any first-night nerves soon disappear though, largely thanks to the unlimited beer and wine. Rob from Manchester, and his best mate Steve, from Birmingham, are the life and soul of the party; Finn, in his early 20s, is the baby of the group (but turned out to be the best at snowboarding). By the end of the evening, we’re all dancing in the Cavern, an après-ski bar in the centre of town.
Nonetheless, the next morning we’re up bright and early and keen to hit the slopes. This trip is mainly aimed at skiers or snowboarders of intermediate level or above (others are aimed more at beginners). I’ve skied only a handful of times, always guided, and find myself a little out of my depth. The first day is fine: I have a lesson here in Morzine, one of the dozen resorts in the 650km Portes du Soleil ski area, which is great for families and beginners. After meeting everyone for lunch, I retire early to the hot tub, pacing myself.
From then on, we ski in neighbouring Avoriaz, where I struggle to keep up on more challenging slopes. We tend to splinter into smaller groups according to ability/level of hangover/need for regular hot-chocolate-with-Baileys breaks, then reconvene for lunch. One day, skiers Rob, Steve and I take a lift all the way to Les Crosets in Switzerland. I’m terrified of taking a wrong turn on to La Chavanette (Swiss Wall), one of the steepest pistes in Europe, but instead enjoy a wonderful, swooping descent back into France.
If the skiing is tough on my poor legs, the après-ski is ferocious. Daniel Janes, who runs Hofnar, is largely responsible for the party vibe: his energy is infectious. Evenings start with a hearty dinner cooked by chalet hosts Ali and Lil (fondue and raclette are delicious) and escalate from there: I rediscover my teenage appetite for big nights out, but can no longer burn the candle at both ends. (I tend to head to the slopes the next day with whoever had the longest lie-in.) We play raucous rounds of Cards Against Humanity by the log fire in the lounge, get competitive with pool and ping-pong in the games room, and make the most of the outdoor hot tub, which overlooks the twinkling bridge into town.
We meet up with the guests in Hofnar’s other chalet, Armaillis (more central but no hot tub), a few times too. Some were definitely breaking the under-40 rule, but Daniel is more interested in attitudes than numbers; he just wants everyone to have a good time. He must be doing something right: many guests come back year after year, reuniting with mates made on previous holidays, and making new ones.
Morzine proved a fun place to hang out. As well as skiing, winter activities include night sledging – a madcap 4km pelt down the steep slopes of Le Pléney wearing a head torch.
Given my skiing struggles, I might have been more suited to one of Hofnar’s beginner and improver weeks (19 January and 9 March 2019), and more advanced skiers and boarders could opt for a backcountry week, including an overnight in a mountain refuge (26 January and 2 February). And, for those who get hooked on the Hofnar experience, it’s not just about snow sports: summer trips include surfing, mountain biking and multi-activity weeks. It could be time to relive my primary school PGL adventure week.
• The trip was provided by Hofnar, its seven-night ski breaks in Morzine cost from £400pp, including shared accommodation, breakfast, snacks, four dinners and unlimited beer and wine. Next available departure 5 January. Check live availability here. Flights from Gatwick to Geneva were provided by British Airways, which has returns from about £70
