Get all your news in one place.
100’s of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Charline Bou Mansour

Oman travel guide — what to see, do and where to stay

Cultural treasures, unspoilt landscapes, pristine beaches, and natural wadis, Oman is the ultimate uncrowded destination. A quiet tourist hotspot yet to suffer at the hands of over-tourism or — shudder — influencers.

Here’s how to get the most out of a week in Oman.

Muscat

Muscat is the ancient seaside capital. Flanked by mountains and historic sites, it provides the ideal spot in which to disconnect and spend blissful days exploring beaches and islands or venturing out to discover the Sultanate’s rich history. Qaboos bin Said, the former Sultan of Oman, who ruled for almost half-a-century, refused to allow skyscrapers to muddy the skyline during his reign. Instead, visitors will find an abundance of coral stone buildings, minarets, and fort-like castellations standing as a reminder of the country’s history.

Taxis are one of the most common ways to get around in Oman, or you can hire a car. Only Omani drivers are allowed to drive taxis, so I was frequently welcomed by local male chauffeurs wearing white dishdashas (thobe or tunic) and colourful kummas (cap) which are part of the national dress. Travelling through the picturesque city, The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is Oman’s largest mosque and Muscat’s main luminary attraction. On the other side of the dual carriageway is more must-see architecture, the Royal Opera House.

Built on the royal orders of Sultan Qaboos, it is the first opera house to open on the Arabian peninsula. On the western side of the city, Port Sultan Qaboos (or the Marina as locals call it) is a gateway to the Dimaniyat Islands, a Unesco-protected nature reserve, where you can experience Oman’s lush coral reefs, and swim with turtles and whale sharks if you’re lucky (or if it’s migration season).

When the warm weather turns and the sun dips below the horizon, Muttrah Souq is the place to be. As a self-confessed shopaholic, navigating the old souq is exhilarating; a traditional market where bartering lingo is expected as you’re lured in at every alley. With so many great options to choose from, you’re spoilt for choice, with antiques, gold, silk traditional fabrics, Omani halwa sweets, spices, and herbs, to name a few. Just outside the narrow winding streets are several shawarma joints where locals indulge, so take your pick.

Where to stay: Jumeirah Muscat Bay opened in June 2022 and consists of 195 rooms, suites, summerhouses, and villas. Each room has a panoramic sea view of the secluded cove of Bandar Jissah.

It is around 30 minutes from Muscat International Airport and to the heart of the city, making it blissfully remote but close enough to the crowds, with views of both mountains and sea with direct access to the beach.

For those looking to unwind, head to the Talise Spa. You will be welcomed with a glass of frankincense, rose, and ginger water and given an option to tailor your treatment according to your individual needs before a pampering session against the backdrop of the Gulf of Oman.

Price: A double room in low season starts from £369 per night; jumeirah.com

Jabal Al Akhdar

It’s hard to put into words how remarkable Jabal Al Akhdar is and photographs don’t do it justice. ‘The Green Mountain’ is the highest point of Oman and isn’t very green but rather rugged. Around two hours from Muscat, it boasts cool temperatures all-year-round and is the perfect escape for unplugged exploring and stargazing.

Jabal Al Akhdar (Charline Bou Mansour)

For mountain enthusiasts, there are several guided hike trails that range from beginner to advanced levels. We took on the ‘Masdara’ hike, which is approximately three hours, a rewarding trail that is marked and well-maintained, and which took us through stone steps, steep rocky tracks, wadis (valleys), and geological wonders. In Oman, evidence of the oldest fossils of plants and animals around the globe is found. Trekking with a mountain guru meant we received valuable insights and a helping hand when scrambling took place.

Every spring, Jabal Al Akhdar welcomes the rose season, where damask roses bloom, transforming the mountain slopes with pink tones and sweet fragrances. Revelling in rose tea is a must and savouring each drop is just as good for your mental health as it is physical.

Where to stay: Anantara Jabal Al Akhdar sits on the edge of a cliff overlooking the canyon that is dotted with ancient villages. It was built around Diana’s Point, which is named after Princess Diana of Wales, who visited the mountains with Prince Charles in November 1986.

Anantara Jabal Al Akhdar, Diana’s Point (Anantara Jabal Al Akhdar)

A rare jewel in the rocky contours of the Saiq Plateau, located 2,000 metres above sea level, Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar is the highest five-star resort in the Middle East and among the highest in the world.

For centuries, fragrant roses have been cultivated in Al Jabal Al Akhdar. In the springtime, you can try Omani coffee with rose water and surrender to a Rose Rescue Ritual (luxuriant rose-oil massage) to experience the hydrating qualities of Jabal Al Akhdar’s damask roses — your skin will glow for days after.

Elevated in both location and authentic luxury, it’s the perfect place to relax and enjoy the mountain scenery while savouring the aromatic blossoms speckled around the garden grounds. It never feels too busy, with open space to wander and discover photographs, artwork, handmade pottery, and lanterns that pay decorous tribute to the Middle East.

Authentic recipes are presented with flair. Ingredients are freshly harvested from the Arabian Sea and local farms, then crafted or grilled to perfection. You must try the black hummus from Al Qalaa — the chef’s signature starter with local black garlic and baklava chips.

Price: Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort prices start from £530; anantara.com

Nizwa

On the way to the historic city of Nizwa, which was once Oman’s capital, we encountered jabal (mountain) goats which always appeared from nowhere, impelling drivers to respond with a sudden honk to ward them off. Jabal Al Akhdar goats are the most expensive and sought-after in the country and it’s widely said that they are shrewd. It was a Friday, and every week, from 6.30am, farmers and traders from as far as Salalah go to the goat market in Nizwa, which is where we were heading.

Nizwa Fort (Charline Bou Mansour)

The cultural symbol of Nizwa is home to the oldest souq in the country and, while it was buzzing with bargaining, it was one of the least frenzied souqs I’ve visited in the MENA region. The city, famous for its agricultural products, is an example of ancient Omani architecture and is about an hour’s drive from Muscat. It is surrounded by some of Oman’s highest mountains and is a must-visit. Nizwa Fort is a 17th-century building and is the most visited attraction in Oman.

Salalah

The final part of our trip comprised flying from Muscat to Salalah to spend some much-needed time on the beach. We would have continued the pattern of our road trip, but the journey takes 10 hours, so we opted for an hour-and-a-half flight instead.

Salalah is the birthplace of the former sultan and was famous in ancient times as a source of frankincense. In every airport, we were blessed with gentle frankincense aromatherapy, where locals would sweep a whiff with their hands and breathe deeply. Inhaling this sweet woody aroma is known to aid lung circulation to encourage easy breathing. Not only is it known for its medicinal properties, but locals also dry their clothes under a frankincense burner, so the scent binds to the fabric. This aromatic resin is obtained from the tree bark of the Boswellia genus of trees and is infused into every single beauty product you can find.

Men showing off bags of Frankincense at market in Salalah (Charline Bou Mansour)

Salalah enjoys a subtropical climate and is known for its banana plantations. Coconut, papaya, custard apple, and guava are among the fruits that are grown locally, so grab yourself a coconut, sit on the beach, and watch Omanis ride their horses through the white sand and, in the distance, you may be able to spot dolphins swim by.

Where to stay: Anantara Al Baleed sits on a pristine 250-metre beach, offers private pool villas, and features a sparkling infinity pool. Located just 15 km from Salalah International Airport, you are promised towering palm trees and tropical gardens.

You will be immersed in paradise from the second you arrive, and you won’t find yourself waiting for more than 10 minutes before poolside service arrives with chilled watermelon treats.

Anantara Al Baleed resort (Anantara Al Baleed)

There are three excellent dining options to choose from; breakfast at Sakalan — translating as ‘The Land of Frankincense’ — provides open kitchens and a variety of culinary stations ready to dish up cuisines from near and far. Feast at Al Mina for lunch or dinner, with each meal crafted from the finest seasonal ingredients and seafood catches (must try freshly caught Omani lobster).

Al Baleed Resort is the perfect place for relaxation in Salalah. Wellness guru Kamal offers private sunset yoga sessions that combine simple yet full-body stretches with breathing techniques to help you calm and balance your body and mind.

Be sure to visit the Frankincense Museum, which is five minutes away by car, or you can just walk over to Anantara Spa, where you can receive a frankincense massage with the sacred essence straight from Salalah, also known as the perfume capital of Arabia.

Rooms: Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara start at £477; anantara.com

Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100’s of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.