Bali, Indonesia, is not particularly known for its fine dining establishments, and this is where one of Ubud's most luxurious resorts comes into the spotlight.
Apéritif Restaurant & Bar is in the luxury paradise of family-owned Viceroy Bali, amid a lush jungle valley setting in Ubud. The dining room, like the bar, brings the opulence of the Roaring Twenties, complete with black and white chequered flooring and impeccable service.
Helmed by Belgian executive chef Nic Vanderbeeken, the menu takes influences from the old Spice Islands and combines them with distinctly modern European flavours and cooking techniques.
"We started with what's on the menu and then we had choices. The menu was always based on who I am, the places I've lived and travelled to and my experiences. I don't like to call it a fusion menu as that is not what it is. It is more about the influences and what you learn along the way that you combine and put into a menu; in a good way," says the chef.
There are two main menus to choose from: the Signature (IDR1,490,000++ or 3,500 baht++) or the Prestige (IDR2,190,000++ or 5,000 baht++), though vegan and vegetarian are available on request. Dinner always begins with an aperitif, naturally, at the bar, where the terrace offers sunset views across the jungle and makes for a pretty picture. It is here that you are also served snacks: potato leaf, fish tartar, yuzu kosho; charcoal puff, smoked mackerel; Martino, filo pastry, pickle (a twist on the Belgian Martino raw minced beef sandwich); Squid tartlet, suna cekuh (garlic and ginger), yoghurt, clam. Though these are changed periodically and do not spoil the meal, I will only go through the dishes that stand out. Once cocktails, expertly created by head mixologist Panji Wisrawan, and snacks are done and the jungle is taken over by nocturnal sounds, it is time to head to the dining room.
Whatever the choice of menu, the culinary journey blends lesser-known Indonesian ingredients, produce sourced globally and from the property's greenhouse harvest with chef Vanderbeeken's eclectic, sophisticated style of cooking. Begin with the oyster, served with one of my favourite things, the ginger flower also known as torch ginger in these parts, dashi and a smoked emulsion. I am always excited when the bread course rolls in, especially when it has a trolley of its own! Choose between focaccia with black olives, black rice (my favourite) and sourdough, or be like me, greedy, and get all three! They also come with three kinds of butter -- sourdough, truffle and salted.
The Wagyu A5 uses tokusen, or in laymen's terms "special section", of Indonesian beef, which is roasted and turned into a carpaccio. Served with a black garlic emulsion, smoked bone marrow emulsion and pickled mustard seeds. It is finished tableside with a beef fat vinaigrette made from the Wagyu A5 trimmings. The zero waste philosophy carries forth when I lick my plate clean!
The heirloom tomato that comes next is a much-needed relief from the rich beef dish and almost acts like a palate cleanser. The zero waste continues and everything from the tomatoes is used. Roasted, squeezed and water extracted, it is turned into a kombucha. With the squeezed tomatoes, a powder is created and mixed with cow's cheese. The opu fish, a dish that changes according to seasonality and what's available in the market, is served with woku, miso and broccoli. Woku is a spice mix that comes from North Sulawesi and is rather refreshing.
The signature dish at Apéritif is chef Vanderbeeken's pride and joy. The inspiration for the dish goes back to when the chef was in Belgium and created a sauce using speculoos (a Belgian caramelised gingerbread biscuit).
"The ingredients in rendang reminded me of it, with the cloves, cinnamon and ginger. The venison Wellington is sourced from a free-range farm in New Zealand and loin is used. It is lined with foie gras in the centre to give more fattiness to the cut of meat. For the Indonesian touch, the rendang is made with venison trimmings and the only adjustment to a traditional recipe from Padang, West Sumatra, is that the coconut cream is added to the jus once the trimmings have been strained out and not in the beginning, like is normally done. Mushroom duxelles, which protect the meat and the foie gras, is also added to the rendang. The sweetness of the spices in the rendang balances the gaminess of the venison and the richness of the foie gras, and that is the whole idea behind the dish, which is also served with sweet potato," explains the chef. A Wellington unlike any other!
Pastry chef Ida Ayu Chinthya Dewi, who is Balinese, showcases her skills in the first dessert, Sensation White. Mango coulis is served with a coconut emulsion and finished with cheesecake crumble, crispy meringue and coconut sorbet. Though, for me, the star of the sweets show is the PB & J, which is a peanut butter mousse and a raspberry and blackberry compote on a biscuit. An absolute stunner of a dessert!
"We are constantly experimenting with myriad native herbs, fruits and produce, and incorporating them into our menus. We have taken careful consideration to provide a dining experience that is unlike any other in Bali," adds chef Vanderbeeken.
Visit aperitif.com.
