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The Guardian - AU
The Guardian - AU
Lifestyle
Max Brearley

‘Old-school, 1950s grandma food’: Australian chefs on reviving retro recipes

Nieuw Ruin's version of herring under a fur coat, made with confit monkfish
Nieuw Ruin's version of herring under a fur coat, made with confit monkfish. Photograph: Westmedia/Nieuw Ruin

We all love a kitchen comeback. Think the return of meatloaf, or when, inexplicably, prawn cocktail got its groove back. Chefs are skilled at trawling the depths of nostalgia, from the trope of “I learned to cook this dish at my nana’s knee”, to mining collective food memories.

“I’ve always gone back and done a lot of reading of old cookbooks,” says chef Blaze Young, who heads up the kitchen at Fremantle wine bar Nieuw Ruin. “I kind of love old-school, 1950s grandma food, and old Australiana.”

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