Is it time for champagne? I think it might be. I always used to get excited by Charbonnel et Walker’s Marc de Champagne truffles, £16/135g, which were part pudding, part chocolate. But London Chocolates’ champagne truffles are a new favourite with smarter, for me, credentials: single-origin Tanzanian cocoa, Taittinger champagne and a bit of cognac, all in Jersey cream, £18/250g. A beautiful, clean snap to the dark chocolate with a sensational centre. Very grown up.