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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Annalisa Barbieri

Notes on chocolate: in dangerous times, you can depend on a good bar

Honduras 72% Carton
‘The taste concertinas on your tongue’: Duffy’s Honduras Indio Rojo Photograph: PR

Last week, I watched a film which is meant to be a ‘modern Jaws’: Sous La Seine (Under Paris, although, yes, I know that’s not literally what it means). Once again an avaricious mayor insists on pressing ahead with an event despite all the evidence from scientists saying there is a shark in the water. Were no lessons learned? It’s been rather slated, but we enjoyed it. Nothing like launching a shark movie as people are thinking about swimming in open water.

My initial reaction was to eat my feelings, but instead I decided to delight my taste buds. I started with NearyNógs’s Lúnasa, a 58% Togo single origin with real lavender, £7.25/60g. This is a proper delight, floral (obviously) and the lavender sits with the punchy chocolate beautifully. Also NearyNógs has recently redesigned all its packaging and it is gorgeous.

Second, Lumi’s 80% Uganda, £6.75/100g. I love it when high-cocoa bars surprise you with their smoothness and this really does. It’s sprinkled with roasted cocoa nibs and is absolutely delicious. My eldest was so taken with it she made me reassure her I ‘wouldn’t eat it all or give it away’.

Then on to Duffy’s Honduras Indio Rojo, 72% dark, £6.95/60g. This is much brighter in profile than the other two and is highly complex: the taste concertinas on your tongue. Very satisfying, but it’s a limited edition so don’t hang about as Duffy’s doesn’t often get these particular beans in stock to work with.

I’m being strict with the amount of chocolate I’m eating at the moment, so after all this tasting I went to make pasta and thought about what would happen if sharks colonised the whole world.

Follow Annalisa on X @AnnalisaB

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