A chocolate has to punch very hard to make a mark, if that chocolate is tested after the excesses of Christmas. Firetree, the brand hitherto famous in this column for being ‘the only 100% worth eating if you absolutely must’, has just launched some milk versions. And once I thought about it, I wondered what took them so long.
I probably made the mistake of trying the 50% dark milk first. This is made from single-estate Mindanao Island cocoa from the Philippines, grown (like all Firetree’s) deep in volcanic soil. I don’t know who decided on this particular cocoa, but it was a genius move: it’s a star. Firetree does already use it for one of its 73% bars, (I haven’t tried that yet, a fault I must remedy).
